Any interest here in better mpg mods?
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ignition timing & LPP
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0604rc-ignition-timing/amp/
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advance-retard-timing-better-mpg-3975.html
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0604rc-ignition-timing/amp/
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advance-retard-timing-better-mpg-3975.html
Last edited by steve05ram360; Nov 14, 2021 at 10:02 AM.
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Air box area mods
Experimenting...
removed air deflector off of RS of the radiator, swapped in a piece of HDPE plastic long enough to block water intrusion into the airbox. Used 2 pieces, 2nd piece is just held in with the screw and wedged between the air box and the upper piece. Removed the snorkle to the air box.
1st observation, right off the bat, trans is downshifting a lot more (which met my expectation) since the opening to the air box is no longer restricted. What this did on the Ram (diesel) was it shifted the torque peak some up the rpm range and part throttle torque dropped in the cruising zone. I see this as well on the dak setup I just did. So, I blocked off some of the flow into the airbox and brought the part throttle torque down in rpms some and now no more excessive downshifting.
I did a few things Friday...
1) swapped in Royal Purple 5w-30 oil as a final oil swap (will be running this at 5k OCIs), expect no change on mpg's
2) started the fuel rail wrap using exhaust wrap that I had on hand. I verified using a thermal cam and a heat gun that as it sits in the package, it will block all heat from heat soaking the metal behind it. I did this in a stainless steel sink to convince myself I was good to go. expect more bottom-mid range torque when complete
3) air box area mods. expect it to shift the part throttle torque up/down the rpm range in alignment with the amount of flow into the box.
Started researching more on the intake manifolds, airflow velocities thru the intake manifold, throttle bodies etc and have concluded the intake that is on there is the right one to have, the TB may be swapped out for a slightly smaller one (the 2000 MY has a smaller one but I read it has different sensors so a challenge there to get around that)
removed air deflector off of RS of the radiator, swapped in a piece of HDPE plastic long enough to block water intrusion into the airbox. Used 2 pieces, 2nd piece is just held in with the screw and wedged between the air box and the upper piece. Removed the snorkle to the air box.
1st observation, right off the bat, trans is downshifting a lot more (which met my expectation) since the opening to the air box is no longer restricted. What this did on the Ram (diesel) was it shifted the torque peak some up the rpm range and part throttle torque dropped in the cruising zone. I see this as well on the dak setup I just did. So, I blocked off some of the flow into the airbox and brought the part throttle torque down in rpms some and now no more excessive downshifting.
I did a few things Friday...
1) swapped in Royal Purple 5w-30 oil as a final oil swap (will be running this at 5k OCIs), expect no change on mpg's
2) started the fuel rail wrap using exhaust wrap that I had on hand. I verified using a thermal cam and a heat gun that as it sits in the package, it will block all heat from heat soaking the metal behind it. I did this in a stainless steel sink to convince myself I was good to go. expect more bottom-mid range torque when complete
3) air box area mods. expect it to shift the part throttle torque up/down the rpm range in alignment with the amount of flow into the box.
Started researching more on the intake manifolds, airflow velocities thru the intake manifold, throttle bodies etc and have concluded the intake that is on there is the right one to have, the TB may be swapped out for a slightly smaller one (the 2000 MY has a smaller one but I read it has different sensors so a challenge there to get around that)
Last edited by steve05ram360; Nov 16, 2021 at 09:22 AM.
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And an example of why programming is going to be key... this guy sums it up.
https://www.*********.com/threads/what-kind-of-gas-mileage-does-your-dakota-get.108121/#post-1224903 Why is this link blocked?
I bit the bullet and ordered up the Airaid intake tube I want to shove on there. I want to get rid of the baffling that is in the OEM throttle body hat. I am not expecting any change in mpg with this, it will just clean up airflow into the TB. It will attach to the stock air box.
https://www.airaid.com/catalog/produ...r-intake-tube/
https://www.*********.com/threads/what-kind-of-gas-mileage-does-your-dakota-get.108121/#post-1224903 Why is this link blocked?
My 2003 4.7 Dakota used to get 12.5 MPG when I first bought it. After I put exhaust, intake, Amsoil and finally the Superchips I now get 15.5 to 16 MPG city. When I did the roadie to Maxwell Dodge in Austin I got 19.5 at 70-75 MPH. I did all the improvements to my Dak except for the Superchips and I could still only get 13-13.5 MPG. The Superchips changed the computer and allowed the engine to use the intake and exhaust. The Mopar computers in a word, suck. The speed density system will not allow the newer engines (4.7, 5.7) to seek better HP with intake and exhaust improvements and will actually DETUNE the engine to keep it within what it believes to be the proper ranges. I put my truck on the dyno at Maxwell Dodge and compared to a bone stock 4.7 2003 Dakota my engine makes over 30 HP and over 30 ftlbs more at the rear wheels with just those improvements.
I bit the bullet and ordered up the Airaid intake tube I want to shove on there. I want to get rid of the baffling that is in the OEM throttle body hat. I am not expecting any change in mpg with this, it will just clean up airflow into the TB. It will attach to the stock air box.
https://www.airaid.com/catalog/produ...r-intake-tube/
Last edited by steve05ram360; Nov 15, 2021 at 10:30 AM.
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On the fuel smell, check around the fuel tank where the charcoal canister is. There are rubber lines that dry rot, might look fine till you touch it.
Last edited by Vimes; Nov 15, 2021 at 11:00 AM.
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RE: fuel smell... its in the engine compartment... I replaced the seal on the cowl that I removed previously and the odor is gone in the cab. This is telling me its in the engine compartment. I suspect its at or near the LDP..
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update, last mods gave 16.143 mpg over 270+ miles, lots of commute miles over 3 days with some additiinal weekend hiway miles...
airaid mit tube arrives saturday... will make that the next mod plus rear diff swap to royal purple. (did not get diff work done)
edging upwards in colder weather... that has never been the norm.
airaid mit tube arrives saturday... will make that the next mod plus rear diff swap to royal purple. (did not get diff work done)
edging upwards in colder weather... that has never been the norm.
Last edited by steve05ram360; Nov 17, 2021 at 09:12 PM.
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@V8Cowboy How long has your MAP sensor been in there?
Word has it that old MAP sensors are causing a drop in performance and MPG's. I ordered up the cam, crank, map and CT along with an o2 sensor (and 180* stat). plan is to drop in the Airaid tube this weekend when it gets there and roll with it before any other changes. I am off next week so it wont be an apples to apples comparison for mpg's, not enough time to try and get data on one mod then the next so a mod could get washed out with another that pulls mpg down a bit.
Saturday is blown, day got eaten up with out of country visitors from Finland... (little womans sister is in town).
Word has it that old MAP sensors are causing a drop in performance and MPG's. I ordered up the cam, crank, map and CT along with an o2 sensor (and 180* stat). plan is to drop in the Airaid tube this weekend when it gets there and roll with it before any other changes. I am off next week so it wont be an apples to apples comparison for mpg's, not enough time to try and get data on one mod then the next so a mod could get washed out with another that pulls mpg down a bit.
Saturday is blown, day got eaten up with out of country visitors from Finland... (little womans sister is in town).
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My Map sensor and probably all the other ones are the OEM ones, i don't have any service history available.
May have been changed in the years though, but not of my knowledge.
I'm doing 18.8 mpg and all rainy, windy days, so no complaints on mpg or performance.
I just haven't figured out why Torque-Pro says 22.1 mpg, km/l seems accurate, so i recalculate them to mpg.
And Saturday ain't blown, just other priorities, but i know what you mean...
Very nice of them to come visit all from over Europe, Finland is a very beautiful country.
May have been changed in the years though, but not of my knowledge.
I'm doing 18.8 mpg and all rainy, windy days, so no complaints on mpg or performance.
I just haven't figured out why Torque-Pro says 22.1 mpg, km/l seems accurate, so i recalculate them to mpg.
And Saturday ain't blown, just other priorities, but i know what you mean...
Very nice of them to come visit all from over Europe, Finland is a very beautiful country.
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I'm in a very different set up because mine's a 2wd, so light weight in comparison and less friction on axles, think aerodynamics are a great deal on my advantage because i'm lowered a lot on the front.
PO has cut the coils, when i bought it, i drove on the bump stops, so i cut the originals ones out and made some new ones with lower soft rubber dampers, i have about 1 inch travel before i hit those, i did changed the tire size from 255 as well on the front to 235 wide to clear the fenders, as they were rubbing when i put the new bump stops on ( more travel ).
Other things to consider is that we don't have hills over here and i drive mostly 60 mph because of the speed limit.
Last tank was 13x42km=546km at 60mph, 1x42km at 80 mhp and 15km at 45mph, total km driven 603km = 376 miles.
I use the calculateme.com website to convert from km/l to mpg, i'm at 8 Kilometers per Liter = 18.82 U.S. MPG
PO has cut the coils, when i bought it, i drove on the bump stops, so i cut the originals ones out and made some new ones with lower soft rubber dampers, i have about 1 inch travel before i hit those, i did changed the tire size from 255 as well on the front to 235 wide to clear the fenders, as they were rubbing when i put the new bump stops on ( more travel ).
Other things to consider is that we don't have hills over here and i drive mostly 60 mph because of the speed limit.
Last tank was 13x42km=546km at 60mph, 1x42km at 80 mhp and 15km at 45mph, total km driven 603km = 376 miles.
I use the calculateme.com website to convert from km/l to mpg, i'm at 8 Kilometers per Liter = 18.82 U.S. MPG