What Did You Do To Your 2ND GEN RAM Today?
Ok, today I trimmed the edges of the headliner (that I covered last weekend), and opened the holes.
I also went around the edge and superglued anywhere the backer itself had started to delaminate (mostly on the corners).
Then the install... it went back in easier than I remember it coming out.
The added thickness from the insulation wasn’t an issue, but it was noticeable... it wouldn’t want to be any thicker.
I also went around the edge and superglued anywhere the backer itself had started to delaminate (mostly on the corners).
Then the install... it went back in easier than I remember it coming out.
The added thickness from the insulation wasn’t an issue, but it was noticeable... it wouldn’t want to be any thicker.
Today I put in the overhead console and pillar gauge pod in... the visors have to wait until I recover them.
I changed the loom connectors for gauges from a 4Pin and a 2pin to a smaller single 6pin.
In the process wires touched and there was a small spark (just audible, not visible)... I figured worst case I blew a fuse.
And wouldn’t you know it, power up and no radio or pod gauges.
Ok, change the radio fuse (it looked good) still nothing... check all the other fuses and they all look good.
So, thinking on this more, the only wire that should have been hot (ignition off) is the radio power supply (that’s what’s tapped to power the pod gauges).
Where else is that circuit fused other than the side of the dash?
I changed the loom connectors for gauges from a 4Pin and a 2pin to a smaller single 6pin.
In the process wires touched and there was a small spark (just audible, not visible)... I figured worst case I blew a fuse.
And wouldn’t you know it, power up and no radio or pod gauges.
Ok, change the radio fuse (it looked good) still nothing... check all the other fuses and they all look good.
So, thinking on this more, the only wire that should have been hot (ignition off) is the radio power supply (that’s what’s tapped to power the pod gauges).
Where else is that circuit fused other than the side of the dash?
Today I put in the overhead console and pillar gauge pod in... the visors have to wait until I recover them.
I changed the loom connectors for gauges from a 4Pin and a 2pin to a smaller single 6pin.
In the process wires touched and there was a small spark (just audible, not visible)... I figured worst case I blew a fuse.
And wouldn’t you know it, power up and no radio or pod gauges.
Ok, change the radio fuse (it looked good) still nothing... check all the other fuses and they all look good.
So, thinking on this more, the only wire that should have been hot (ignition off) is the radio power supply (that’s what’s tapped to power the pod gauges).
Where else is that circuit fused other than the side of the dash?
I changed the loom connectors for gauges from a 4Pin and a 2pin to a smaller single 6pin.
In the process wires touched and there was a small spark (just audible, not visible)... I figured worst case I blew a fuse.
And wouldn’t you know it, power up and no radio or pod gauges.
Ok, change the radio fuse (it looked good) still nothing... check all the other fuses and they all look good.
So, thinking on this more, the only wire that should have been hot (ignition off) is the radio power supply (that’s what’s tapped to power the pod gauges).
Where else is that circuit fused other than the side of the dash?
How did that pillar gauge fit? My 96 had glow shift one installed and it didn't fit right. What do you mean by pins? Did you add a connector? I do believe there is a radio fuse in the PDC and the radio also gets power from the IOD fuse in pretty sure. Also if it's aftermarket radio there is a fuse on the back of it also
Mind you, I cut a section of the standard pillar cover around the clips and bonded that into the back of the GlowShift pod.
Ok, so it’s battery, IOD fuse (engine bay), Radio fuse end of dash), and radio fuse (on the radio).
I tapped the pod gauge power supply into the aftermarket radio harness adapter, so the fuse on the radio is down stream from that, so it shouldn’t have blown.
I changed the radio fuse at the end of the dash, so that leaves the IOD fuse.
I would have expected the IOD fuse to be higher rating than the radio fuse, meaning the radio fuse should go first.
And if the IOD fuse went, wouldn’t there be more than just the radio that doesn’t work?
Should the radio work without keep alive power?... just loose memory when turned off?
No problem with fit for me... mine’s GlowShift in a 98.
Mind you, I cut a section of the standard pillar cover around the clips and bonded that into the back of the GlowShift pod.
Ok, so it’s battery, IOD fuse (engine bay), Radio fuse end of dash), and radio fuse (on the radio).
I tapped the pod gauge power supply into the aftermarket radio harness adapter, so the fuse on the radio is down stream from that, so it shouldn’t have blown.
I changed the radio fuse at the end of the dash, so that leaves the IOD fuse.
I would have expected the IOD fuse to be higher rating than the radio fuse, meaning the radio fuse should go first.
And if the IOD fuse went, wouldn’t there be more than just the radio that doesn’t work?
Mind you, I cut a section of the standard pillar cover around the clips and bonded that into the back of the GlowShift pod.
Ok, so it’s battery, IOD fuse (engine bay), Radio fuse end of dash), and radio fuse (on the radio).
I tapped the pod gauge power supply into the aftermarket radio harness adapter, so the fuse on the radio is down stream from that, so it shouldn’t have blown.
I changed the radio fuse at the end of the dash, so that leaves the IOD fuse.
I would have expected the IOD fuse to be higher rating than the radio fuse, meaning the radio fuse should go first.
And if the IOD fuse went, wouldn’t there be more than just the radio that doesn’t work?
Those are the only ones I know that the radio gets power from