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Old May 13, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #71  
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I was thinking of using Preset #2 as well. I am running 180 stat with SCT tune. I am trying to figure a way to get around using the inline fuse holders as I have one for trailer brakes already and I don't like clutter hanging around the PDC. Haven't figured that out yet.

Did you use OEM temp sensor or install the Spal sensor? Any issue with that or the AC connection?

I am bolting battery box back in today and will hang fan kit in. Thought I would clean up around engine bay and replace deteriating OEM convolute tubing whil I had room to work comfortably. I thought about dressing it up like TheyCallMe Laramie when he did his, but have decided not to do the nice sleeves he put on his hoses. That and the red convolute he added really worked well with the red truck.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I was thinking of using Preset #2 as well. I am running 180 stat with SCT tune. I am trying to figure a way to get around using the inline fuse holders as I have one for trailer brakes already and I don't like clutter hanging around the PDC. Haven't figured that out yet.

Did you use OEM temp sensor or install the Spal sensor? Any issue with that or the AC connection?

I am bolting battery box back in today and will hang fan kit in. Thought I would clean up around engine bay and replace deteriating OEM convolute tubing whil I had room to work comfortably. I thought about dressing it up like TheyCallMe Laramie when he did his, but have decided not to do the nice sleeves he put on his hoses. That and the red convolute he added really worked well with the red truck.
I've got the stock 195 stat. Maybe I should be on Preset 3. Need to look at that again. Well, you having the battery box out and all will give you control on your routing.

I ended up using the OEM sensor as I didn't have long enough allen to pull the 1/2" npt plug in my intake to use the SPAL. So, connection to the OEM sensor was fine once I got it out from under the heater hose. It was a little annoying. I spliced it and the a/c at least an inch away from the connector. One of my pics shows the A/C one.

Oh, I did have one of my mounting holes on the shroud NOT line up. Had to drill it out and glad it was soft AL.

I used one piece of black convolute. It worked well. Notice there are not finish pics for TheyCallMeLaramie. I found it better to route and tuck up behind the headlight. Only the a/c and temp wires go by the power steering pump. I plan to put those in convolute later as I only had a single 5' piece on hand.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #73  
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I am going to see if I can get the male and female AC connector fomr the dealer for the temp and ac so I can fabricate a nice connection instead of splicing original wiring. I know, probably a little retentive, but years working in electrical engineering will make you look at wiring a little differently. Ever see a telecom switch room in a commercial building - makes me want to go postal!
 

Last edited by gdstock; May 13, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Ever see a telecom switch room in a commercial building - makes me want to go postal!
Dammit, man, I was having a nice day until you stirred up that barrel of snakes.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 07:32 PM
  #75  
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I dont know about anyone else but I am pretty excited to see this e-fan installed. It is going to look really good!
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
Dammit, man, I was having a nice day until you stirred up that barrel of snakes.

ROFL....at least I am not the only one that hates crap like that!

A little work today on the Ram:

Finished up battery box and installed new all thread for battery hold down.

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Touch up on cruise control before reinstalling it beneath battery box.

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Started to bolt in e-fan, and the top hole on the driver side did not line up. Have to pull out and drill in correct place.


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Old May 13, 2012 | 08:38 PM
  #77  
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Funny. Same one for me was off.

I'm no EE and will nevere claim to be. Disliked it the first time I encountered, ah crap can't remember but it introduced time variable (starts with L?). A telecom room never bothered me once I learned how to punch down. Done with that after about 30 minutes...lol

Definitely cool if you can get some better connectors. I used what I had and will probably put a connector somewhere inline for disconnecting purposes.

You suck for cleaning up your batt box.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #78  
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Lol I like the painted fuse box lid
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 10:25 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by EndIsNear
Lol I like the painted fuse box lid

When you look at how ugly it was....

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It took about three washings with water and baking soda before it stopped foaming to get all the acid off. Completely
wore out a GI brush scrubbung. Then cleaning with lacquer thinnner and shoot with Rustoelum Plastic paint. Would
have done entire PDC but thought I would get into a mess trying to pull it out and put it back in!

When you start doing an extensive rework the hard part for me is figguring out where to stop. Kind of like replacing
the plumbing in an old house. You end up doing it all. The question is how many different time to start and stop before
it is all new!
 

Last edited by gdstock; May 13, 2012 at 11:08 PM.
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Old May 13, 2012 | 11:07 PM
  #80  
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The wiring for the second fan from the controller to the relay is too long. There is a place to mount the relay on the
shroud panel, but it appears they left enough wire to mount the relay remotely. I will most likely try to get an extra
fan connector and cut out the excess wire to reduce current draw and make installation a little cleaner.

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Here I am routing the convolute tubing under the fan to the drivers side of inner fender:

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I used 3/4" convolute tubing from fan relay to innerfender where I broke out the ground wires the reduced down
to 1/2" tubing. And now beneath the battery box:

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And out behind battery Box and before PDC. I am going to look for a different fuse box to install instead of three
inline fuses. Probably install it just below PDC.

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After dropping out the wires to battery I will reduce to 3/8" tubing and route to firewall and bring the AC and temp
sensor wire to the engine from the rear of engine to keep wires from running across the engine.
 

Last edited by gdstock; May 13, 2012 at 11:09 PM.
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