Yeah, sounds like things are significantly different on the 'Rango.

And I agree, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Perhaps only on this set up. I've worked on other Durango's and it's all smaller easier to get to stuff. The slinky bends this trans cooler lines need to take to get around things, are indescribable!

 

I have that fitting if ur still in need of it just let me know

 

I have this fitting if ur still in need of it just let me know

 

Which fitting? I might be interested

 

Why don't people drill it out? Took me about 10 minutes and was free. I took a drill bit a little bit bigger than the hole and went up in small increments until I saw a stainless steel disc. I kept going up in small increments until the small disc, ball and spring popped out. used grease on the drill bits to catch the brass as it came off. Reinstalled to the compression fitting and done. My truck has the HD and towing packages with the big cooler in front of the radiator. It doesn't route through the engine radiator. Not sure if this would make a difference. When I put the transmission back in I reverse flushed the lines from the transmission to cooler.

 

I'm with you, don't know why they are making a big deal (expensive) out of this. I drilled my check valve out, blew it out good with air nine years ago and never had a problem. I noticed no difference in take off time but I have always gave it a few seconds to warm up. Sold the truck a couple of years ago, over 100,000 miles on it, no problem.

 

Put in a new used lower core support yesterday, was harder then expected because of all that's in the way, including fenders. Nice to have the radiator and condenser mounted right long after it was smacked hard. Finally found the check valve stuffed under the radiator, but I can still get to it with the plastic covers off the underside. I don't have a good understanding of the flow through the tranny lines, from trans up from the bottom, through radiator then a trip through the aux cooler, then through check valve, then return to tranny I guess. If that's incorrect, someone let me know please.

Anyway with the two lines disconnected from in and out of radiator and cooler, I blew air both ways to see if check valve was even working.
One way I can't blow through, and the other I believe it was throwing fluid out the vent of tranny. What a surprised mess!

So is the correct way to clear the lines and check the function of check valve, to remove both lines from tranny and blow through those two, so as to see if check valve is functioning. Try blowing both ways from tranny, just to be sure of the flow, or no flow. ? I'm willing to take the debris risk this thing is clean, I had the pan off recently. I don't remember looking to see how hard it might be to reach and remove the cooling lines.
Any ideas would be great, thanks, From Joe..

 

Just drill out the check valve, or, replace the section of line entirely. With the valve out of the way, you can flush the lines/coolers, if you really want to.

Fluid comes from the trans, to the bottom port on the radiator, (and the check valve *should* be right where the lines transitions from metal, to rubber.) out the radiator to the aux cooler (if equipped) and then back to the trans.

 

Perhaps I didn't make my situation clear. Why didn't the fluid return to the other disconnected radiator line, instead it blasted out the vent. In other words, I'm wondering if that might be the wrong route to take blowing the air to test valve.
Perhaps it must be done by blowing air through the two disconnected lines right off the tranny.. I believe it might.
THX, I hope that was explained better, I haven't been to bed yet, lol...