so advance will carry it?

 

should.

 

PICS!

 

i think he put the stud on the rear main on the wrong side...

 

mmm, nothing sexier than a fresh block.

Hell, order up the entire upper engine gasket rebuild kit from www.rockauto.com and save yourself about $50. It'll have the correct felpro headgaskets with it, plus just about everything else you need to reassemble a short block. Take the other gaskets back to wherever you got them form if you already bought them.

Remember, once a headgasket is compressed, there's no reusing it, so be sure you're done with everything head related. I'd torque them in at least a 3 step sequence following the FSM, and then check them every 10-15 minutes to see if they'll take any more torque. Mine took 5 times before the last bolt stopped taking torque and settled in.

Whats the problem with the rear main? Don't see anything out of order on the pics you have posted. Show a pic, or it didn't happen.

I'd seriously consider turning the crank over a time or two to make sure every single rod arm clears the bottom of that block. Best to know now. Not sure what the proper procedure is for lubrication in that instance, maybe someone else could chime in.

I foresee a tranny rebuild in your immediate future, muhahahaha!

 

nice pics bro ! ! me like

 

the block was grinded for rod clearance during the initial build, it rotated just fine the last time it was assembled.

when i took it apart a while back, the bolt in the rear main was where the stud is now, and vice versa.

im excited to hear this cam too, im hoping it has a nice lope to it

 

advance does not specify the gasket thicknesses, but none of the replacement gaskets on their site were .055 when i googled the part numbers to check thickness.

would a .051 make for too tight of a quench -.036-.037?

i ordered this one from hughes. fel pro permatorque severe duty. this look good? seems to give me a desired CR of 10.08:1 and a .039 quench. thats exactly what i was after.

 

it would be easier to weld the wideband o2 bung into the header while its laying on the shop bench instead of laying under the truck and welding into the y-pipe, but is it acceptable to do so, right near the collecter?

as i look into the completion of the build, there are a few odd and ends im trying to locate...

1. paper gasket b/w block and oil filter adapter.
2. vacuum setup, i think im going to run a pump and just use the engine vac for the PCV system. whats the best way to do that?
3. anyone oppose the old stlye metal fuel rails? i have one lying around and think the test port could prove useful. it does have finger tip sized dent in it...
4. the MP 6 vein water pump the guy gave me has never been used, but was sitting around for a while, is it good?
5. new motor mounts or just new isolators?
6. bolts and gasket for 2bbl adaptor

 

anyone know if the 4bbl MPI m1 will allow use of a/c?

some people are saying it doesnt, whats up with that?

people are also claiming that an LA waterneck is required, but my magnum waterneck seems to fit fine...