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End-all Be-all plenum thread

Old Feb 27, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #311  
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ahh,sorry ,3 more questions for you all:

1.what thermostat will it be better to buy the 180' degrees ?
2.checking the cylinder compression on wet with oil adding ,do i use the same tester that i use for the dry test?
3.i know i have read somewhere on this tread that some intake bolts we need to cut them? because they are longer...?
i was going to buy the outside 12 bolts from the dealer. (2.80$ each)

i am adding all together so i can change the plenum plate.

thank you!

regards,
bosanci28
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by bosanci28
ahh,sorry ,3 more questions for you all:

1.what thermostat will it be better to buy the 180' degrees ?
2.checking the cylinder compression on wet with oil adding ,do i use the same tester that i use for the dry test?
3.i know i have read somewhere on this tread that some intake bolts we need to cut them? because they are longer...?
i was going to buy the outside 12 bolts from the dealer. (2.80$ each)

i am adding all together so i can change the plenum plate.

thank you!

regards,
bosanci28
A lot of the guys run a 195 degree thermostat rather than the 180.
Use the same compression tester for the wet test.
If you are replacing the plenum plate with the aluminum plate then you shouldn't need shorter bolts. The original problem was a combination of the thinner metal plate and bolts being just a hair too long. The aluminum plate is thicker so it takes up the difference and negates the need for cutting the bolts. If the original plate is reused then adding washers would probably be better than cutting the bolts.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #313  
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did yesterday the dry/wet compression test:

cil1 dry-150 wet-180
cil2 dry-157 wet-185
cil3 dry-157 wet-183
cil4 dry-150 wet-177
cil5 dry-150 wet-177
cil6 dry-155 wet-180
cil7 dry-153 wet-177
cil8 dry-157 wet-180


also based on this tread here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post2730486

had some problems with my engine cutting off ,found a bad crack sparg plug,replaced it and the truck works really good now,

thanks
regards,
bosanci28
 
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 02:39 PM
  #314  
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Originally Posted by bosanci28
did yesterday the dry/wet compression test:

cil1 dry-150 wet-180
cil2 dry-157 wet-185
cil3 dry-157 wet-183
cil4 dry-150 wet-177
cil5 dry-150 wet-177
cil6 dry-155 wet-180
cil7 dry-153 wet-177
cil8 dry-157 wet-180


also based on this tread here
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post2730486

had some problems with my engine cutting off ,found a bad crack sparg plug,replaced it and the truck works really good now,

thanks
regards,
bosanci28
Your rings are going...... use much oil?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Your rings are going...... use much oil?
i used this little pomp to push the oil in for the wet test,

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and i press about 4 times on it,for the oil to go in,maybe is little more than one teaspoon i guess...

the engine was rebuild about 4,5 years ago by a shop,and i think i put about 50-60.000 miles on it,

now i did not notice loosing any oil ,but will check from today ,on to see it goes anywhere,
i had a little leak also but is fixed ,now i check every week to see if it stay in the same place.

thanks
 
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Your rings are going...... use much oil?
What's the ideal pressure supposed to be?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 05:29 PM
  #317  
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I thought they were supposed to come about 160-170 from the dealer..?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #318  
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Guys when it comes to torque wrenchs for the plenum project... What brand style ect is the best cost effective wrench to buy ??

See craftman, harbor freight and all the other cheaper brands of click style torque wrench seem to be 50/50 on quality, they break dont click, dont torque correctly at least accoding to reviews i've read... Snap on is way outa the question im not spending $240 each for a inh and ft torque wrench.. simply because i cannot afford to spend $500 on wrenchs and $150 in parts.



I have a couple beam style torque wrenchs from craftsman and i love them for lug nuts and stuff.... Would a beam style inch and ft lbs torque wrenchs work for this project ? Beam style seem to be a lot more reliable, dont break, easy to calibrate, accurate and cost effective... Only problem is they arent ratcheting, looking at the needle for the reading could be difficult and i dunno if the thing would fit for the rear intake bolts without being a ratchet style wrench or perhaps the little gauge on it might get in the way of something

I was thinking of this inch lbs beam wrench http://www.amazon.com/2955-Torque-Wr.../dp/B00004SQ3B and a similer one for FT lbs because the ones i got might be too long to use accuratly for this project
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 01:15 AM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by Shaggy433
I thought they were supposed to come about 160-170 from the dealer..?

Thats what i read, 160-170 from a new engine, and anything under 110 need a rebuild... However bonsanci's readings show his rings are worn out judging by the 15-20psi increase from the dry/wet reading.. See oil squirts seal the rings up so if the rings are worn out the readings will go up. If they are fine the readings will stay near the same.. Fo example all my cylinders were around 160psi dry and 165 with oil.. While his are more around 155 dry and 180 with oil. But this is no surprise from a V8 with 240k miles.. Unless its burning a ton of oil and pinging or something i wouldnt worry too much about it with that many miles because the only way to fix this is a rebuild
 
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Old Mar 2, 2012 | 07:59 AM
  #320  
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I bought the 1/4" inch pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight, it was on sale for 19.99. Ironically a friends father has an expensive one that he brought over while I was in the process. we rechecked bolts with that wrench and they were the same so I was very happy with it. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html
 
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