HeyYou I'm confused, in post #545 u wrote "No center divider on 98 and up, also, only one port for temp sensor on 98 and up" then in post #547 u wrote "97 and older had TWO temp sensor ports" and I'm not sure why zman didn't point that out as he usually is quick to point out most other 'mistakes'...just wondering...

 

BTW zman, you should know I'm breaking *****..& go Mets!

 

It sure won't hurt...... Squirt 'em, maybe tap 'em with a hammer a bit. Do it both when the engine is stone cold, and also when fully warmed.

98 and newer have no center divider, and only one temp sensor.

97 and older have two temp sensors, and the center divider, some 96's, and all 97's do NOT have the provision for egr. 96 and up did not use egr. They just had some manifolds left with egr ports... so, the used them, and put a block off plate where the egr would go.

 

Thank you for the advise! Also, do I really need to tap the IM bolt holes before I put the new bolts in? Or can I just blast the bolt holes with BK or something? Just worried about getting an accurate torque spec...I won't bother you anymore..tonight thanks again..

 

I ment break cleaner or gumout..so you wouldn't be able to use a blocked off egr type IM on an engine that normally runs with an egr right? I've read through over 200 posts to this thread so far and I see it often but just want to say you guys are so helpful thanks for all your time and what not...ok now I'll stop

 

Considering the truly low amount of torque you put on those bolts, I would run a tap down em, and make sure they are squeaky clean..... You don't want to have to do the job again.... (nor do you want coolant leaking into the oil......)

Some folks have used a non-egr manifold on a truck that expects egr system..... some get codes for it, some don't.... you could do a custom tune, and have egr removed from the programming... but, that's not exactly inexpensive..... I would make sure I had the motor I wanted before I sprung for that.... either that, or consider converting to the 96-97 OBDII system.... Flash programmable PCM.

Edit: And the 96-97 systems don't use EGR.

 

IN post #239 pg 24 u wrote "Earlier models had the breather-lookin' feller, with the fat hose fitting. No idea what the technical term for it is......" FYI 'crankcase breather filter' I put a new one on my truck last week..$6- It should be called 'valve cover breather filter'...
Anyways, u also wrote "To clean the pistons, run some SeaFoam thru the engine. (feed it in thru a vacuum line.)" would u recommend any one in particular?

 

I used the brake booster line. Keep in mind, it has a large opening, and can easily suck in enough liquid to stall the engine. Having a buddy help, by keeping revs around 1500 or so, while you control the hose in the liquid, makes the job easier.

Keep in mind, at some point, you WANT to stall the engine, and let it sit for a few minutes...... then start it up, and kill mosquitoes for miles around.

 

Ok so I'm up to pg. 35...Still haven't seen anything about 'fuel system pressure release procedures' Read my SM seems kinda sorta not to bad..

And also post#335 "Depending on what the shop charges you are looking at between $50-60 per hour, so a good estimate would be $180-250. He said a very easy job for a decent mechanic. Cleaning the stuff is the time consuming part and re assembly." R U f-ing kidding?? I was quoted $650 LABOR ONLY & he said that's a little lower cause I'm suppling the RTV, b-cleaner, tb cleaner, thread-lock and what not..he said the job takes approx 5hrs w/an 'A' mec doing the work..

My prob, where I live you are not allowed to work on your car/truck in front of your house..just did the cat as quick as possible but that was cake compared to doing the plenum..(time wise)...advise, tips would be great, thanks in advance..Patt

 

Got someplace else you could do it??