How would one calibrate a clicker style torque wrench? I suppose a known value/constant is required?

 

There is a tool for just such an occasion. Not that I have seen one in many (any..) shops that use the clicker style torque wrench......

If you zero out your t/w when not in use, it becomes less of an issue. Some of the better ones specify the 're-cert' frequency for theirs.... its measured in years...... (IF properly cared for.)

 

Intresting.... I found this on trusty ole Google.


http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...-torque-wrench

Sounds a little convoluted if you ask me.

 

HeyYou, "two to three weeks on & off"? aside from the intake flange gaskets and plenum gasket did you do anything else? also what did you use besides break cleaner?

 

5.9RamRod, I've got the 5.9 1500 and my sm states you should put 5mm/0.2in of sealant to the four corner joints. The sealant should be slightly higher than the cross-over gaskets. It calls for mopar silicone rubber adhesive sealant or equivalent. As for the plenum, it says to hand start all bolts, A-tighten to 24in. lbs all, B-tighten to 48in lbs all, C-tighten to 84in lbs all, D- then check that all are to 84in lbs....thread lock is blue or red, one is just stronger than the other and both are breakable...I use them both on my dirt bike...hope this helps!!

 

I trimmed the runners back, and opened up the injector ports inside the manifold some.

I had a shop to use, so, I had brake cleaner, and an air powered whizz wheel. Works great. Scrape off the bulk, whizz off the rest, hit it with brake cleaner, wipe it down, put it back together. I had the 'new' manifold hot tanked..... I should have had it blasted as well, but, didn't think of that in time. Not to mention, it was getting toward the begging of dirt track racing season, so, the machine shop was BUSY.

 

got ya, should get some more hp doing that...and it's always good to be tight with someone at shop..lost those privileges once I moved out of NY

 

Just bought an intake from the jy didn't read the invoice till I left (sayes 95' 318 intake), the intake from a 95' 318 is the same as the 95' 360 intake right?

 

I have modded a dozen keggers or so. First off be sure it does not have center divider. Next take a sharpie and mark where you want to cut. Put a 3" cut off wheel on a die grinder. Cut a deep notch in the walls where you want to shorten the runner. Make sure it is deep. Next, hammer and chisel are your friends, smack it with the hammer a few times and break it out. Once the runners are cut down close to where you want to be get a 4" grinder and a 40-60 grit flap disc and grind them down smooth and flush. Next get a 1/2" cutter and go to work on the bottom of the injector ports and lastly gasket match it and it's done. 3-4 hours and your kegger mod is done.

 

Just took the plenum pan off the extra intake and am now having second thoughts on doing the kegger mod. I didn't realize the egr outlet was positioned throughout the dividing wall in the middle. How do I even clean the egr port out?