Plenum Repair now no spark
#1
Plenum Repair now no spark
I just did the plenum repair/upgrade, and everything went pretty smoothly. I went to start the truck back up for the first time and it turns over and over but won't fire. I have a stable 35psi of fuel pressure at the test port. I double-checked all connections and vacuum lines, and everything is connected as it was prior to the project (took lots of pics). I hooked my timing light up to the number 1 plug and turned her over and got no flashes. I hooked it to the wire from the coil and still got nothing. I checked the primary and secondary resistance on the coil, and they are both in specs. I then chaecked for voltage between the two wires feeding the coil while a friend cranked the engine....nothing. I am new to working with Dodges, is there anything I might have overlooked? All fuses in both boxes are good. I also tried resesting the factory anti-theft device several times without any success. I replaced the cap and rotor while it was easy to get to, and everything is back as it was. Any suggestions?
1995 1500 3.9 v6
2WD Auto
1995 1500 3.9 v6
2WD Auto
#3
#5
#6
I did remove the negative cable before I started the tear down. I was very careful to pinch any wires when I reinstalled the manifold. Is the camshaft position harness the one that is three wires laid flat side-by-side (all black)? If so, it is connected and undamaged. I've checked and rechecked the dizzy and wires and everything is connected correctly. I also verified that all the grounds got reconnected.
#7
Stop -- take a deep breath, and walk away from the truck. Drink a beer, eat a sammich, and watch something completely mind-numbing on TV for about an hour. Once you've done that, go back to the truck and completely retrace your steps from start to finish on each electrical connection. Whenever something like this happens, it's all due to something I call "really stupid", meaning it's something that was very easily overlooked. Don't be afraid to disconnect and reconnect an electrical connection. Sometimes, we don't think that just because it appears a wire is in place does not mean it is properly seated.
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#8
#9
Yes the fuel pump runs when I turn the key to RUN. I have a stable 35psi of fuel pressure at the test port on the fuel rail too. I gave up on it yesterday and took a breather after I couldn't figure it out. I got up earlly today and compared everything to the pictures I took before and during the teardown...everything is the same. I've tried unplugging and reconnected the major sensors like: MAP, TPS, Cam position, etc.
Here are some of the other things I did while I had the manifold off:
Replaced the (2) pin ECT sensor on the front of the manifold (it was falling apart)
Replaced the oil pressure sending unit on the back (beside the dizzy)
Replaced cap and rotor (rotor went ack on in same orientation, wires are correct)
Replaced valve cover gaskets....not that that could do anything
Here are some of the other things I did while I had the manifold off:
Replaced the (2) pin ECT sensor on the front of the manifold (it was falling apart)
Replaced the oil pressure sending unit on the back (beside the dizzy)
Replaced cap and rotor (rotor went ack on in same orientation, wires are correct)
Replaced valve cover gaskets....not that that could do anything