From what i understand there are 3 combinations: your set up with a cat that has two 2" inlets, then a y-pipe that is 2.5" at he collector, then my version with the 3" y-pipe collector at the cat

 

I have the Gibson shorties.

First, don't buy the standard header bolts, waste of time.

Buy the ARP 12 point bolts. 3/4" long, 5/16" 18 thread pitch. The length is fine, trust me.

The head on those bolts are 3/8", but it's hardened steel, so you won't snap them off you torque them down. The smaller head on the bolts makes getting a box end on them much easier.

Use a set of felpro header gaskets, and torque them down tight, start from the center and work your way out.

This part is the most critical to getting a good lasting seal: Go drive it for 15 minutes, then let the engine completely cool. check torque, it's a guarantee that several will be loose due to heat stretch.

The next day, drive all day, then check them again at the end of the day. A few will be loose, but not nearly as bad as day one.

Then check at the end of the week, and one last time at the end of the month. You should have a good seal.

The collector is where I have all my trouble with the Gibson headers. If you over torque the collector bolts, or you don't tighten them evenly, they leak like a mother. Use a lock washer under the nut, and don't go over 50 ft/lbs, or you'll stretch the threads and ruin their clamping force. You'll know when this happens, because you'll tighten them and it'll sound good driving for about 20 seconds, then the tick, tick, tick will come right back.

If you hear an exhaust leak after you've installed the headers, check the collectors first.


Don't bother with any RTV, none will hold up to the exhaust temps. I tried copper RTV at the collector flange, it just burnt into a nice crinkly piece of plastic.

 

Gibson is a good choice. I purchased a set of the stainless steel and had them KoolKromed (same a Jet Hot coating) locally. They look practically as good today as they did 8 years ago and have never had a leak and have never re-torqued the header bolts. IMHO Gibson has the highest quality header on the market. A little higher priced than other brands but you get what you pay for.

 

Do I have to remove the exhaust studs like Gibsons directions say to? I would hate for those to snap.......

 

Hit 'em with chemicals before trying to take 'em out.

 

It all depends on where you live. I live in Nor Cal and I just hit them up with PB Blast the day before and they came off without a hitch. People who live in the North East, however, don't have that kind of luck. You don't "have to" but it is recommended if your gonna swap out the bolts. If you do take them off, do it at the very last so your gaskets and headers have something to rest on.

 

Yeah i have already hit them with mopar rust penetrate and will a couple more times this weekend. My question is can you install these headers while retaining the exhaust studs?

I have had to remove broken exhaust studs before and i really want to avoid that job if i dont have to remove the studs.

If i do i will be ginger and do the "double nut" method and pray lol.

 

If you refer back to the first link I gave you a while back, he actually used the studs like you are wanting to. You can see it in his pics.

 

Yeah bud I saw that in the link but I wanted to make sure since the primary runner design on the Gibson set is a different layout then the Pacesetter/JBA set up. Was concerned primarily with the clearance on the drivers side with the brake booster and the header runners.

I am gonna try to remove the studs and if they fight me too much I will just keep them in.

Thanks again everybody for the help. The headers should be here on Wed. Hopefully i will sandblast them and get them coated and baked all in the same day.

 

Here is a writeup I did with my JBAs with pics. ALso, getting the bolts that AIM recommended is also a good thing. I got 12 point bolts from a local hardware shop for less than two dollars.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...stall-diy.html