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About to install a set of Gibson Shorty's, any tips?

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Old 12-01-2011, 06:58 PM
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Default About to install a set of Gibson Shorty's, any tips?

I picked up a set for 160.00 so I figured what the heck. They are in great shape just the paint coating burned off. I have a powder coating machine at work so I am gonna coat them in HOTCOAT High Temp Silver.

I have researched and the install is said to be a bitch. The instructions say you have to remove the 2 exhaust studs in the head....this correct? I am basicaly looking for any tips from people who have installed them before. I am not worried about it being tough, I just know if I can avoid a headache, by all means fill me in

Gaskets with copper RTV or not?
Any particular gasket brand recommended?
Should I replace the y-pipe to header donut gasket too?

I have a 2001 1500 5.9L. Truck runs great and has little mods: Custom AEM intake, SCT hemifever 91 octane tune, Super 44 Flowmaster. I figured these would be nice snce they bolt right up. I had a chance at many cheap pacesetter shorties BUT I couldnt turn these down since they averaged a bit more in price used and seem better qaulity(guess there).

I also dont have any hardware(bolts) with the headers. Anyone know what 5/16'' thread pitch AND length bolt I should buy. The instructions I downloaded from Gibson's website said they came with 1" long 5/16" bolts....I think that would be too short given the 3/8" thick flange and washers on top of it all, doesnt leave much treads into the head.

Thanks for the help guys.....hope I feel a power difference.
 

Last edited by FC3S Murray; 12-01-2011 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:37 PM
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well i havent pull headers on my truck but ive done them before,, i cant answers alot ur thoughts but

these trucks dont have donut gaskets,, i dont want a auto parts to rip u off

get sum pb blaster..ect and start hitting all the bolts and studs,,, i would do it every day for like a week,,,

do the pass side frist,,, more room and you will learn better

and beer and a good freind!!!!
 
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:44 PM
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Here's a link the a header install. There JBA's but still, it'll give you an idea.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...stall-diy.html
You might also want to look into safety wiring the bolts. Don't know what the is? Google it.
 
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by J415
Here's a link the a header install. There JBA's but still, it'll give you an idea.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...stall-diy.html
You might also want to look into safety wiring the bolts. Don't know what the is? Google it.
Thanks for the link.
As for the safety wire...I know what it is. I rebuild Pratt and Whitney F-100/220E Turbine engines for the F-15 for a living, I am VERY familiar with safety wire, most safety wire bolts cost an arm and a leg though.
Dont know what that engine is? Google it

well i havent pull headers on my truck but ive done them before,, i cant answers alot ur thoughts but

these trucks dont have donut gaskets,, i dont want a auto parts to rip u off

get sum pb blaster..ect and start hitting all the bolts and studs,,, i would do it every day for like a week,,,

do the pass side frist,,, more room and you will learn better

and beer and a good freind!!!!
Thanks man for the post. Beer will be there for sure. I have some MOPAR rust penetrant so I will hit them tonight and until Sunday.
 
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:31 PM
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You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.
 
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FC3S Murray
Thanks for the link.
As for the safety wire...I know what it is. I rebuild Pratt and Whitney F-100/220E Turbine engines for the F-15 for a living, I am VERY familiar with safety wire, most safety wire bolts cost an arm and a leg though.
Dont know what that engine is? Google it .
No worries. I only mentioned that "google it" part because there are COUNTLESS newboo and non-newboo members that want you to grab there hand and walk them threw every step. Not because they can't do it, rather because there just lazy.
What about making a jig to make your own safety wire bolts? After all, they're not taking alot of tension. It's just to avoid having to re-torque every month.
The passenger side is really easy. The drivers side is a HUGE PITA.
 
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:03 AM
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I have a set of Gibson headers on my truck. Tip; you will need to grind down the box end of a 7/16 box wrench you will need this to get to four of the bolts(its to thick to fit between the pipe and bolt head). I pulled out the rad fan and the rad shroud and stood in there to work. When I install headers I remove the spark plugs and then put in old ones just in case I break one off. In the four years they have been on my truck I have never had a bolt back out or a gasket blow out. All of the hardware and gaskets are Gibson. I just had the headers off to do some head work and reused the gaskets and bolts and have zero leaks. I would go with Gibson gaskets and bolts, it's your choice in the end.
 
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.
I think I lucked out because my Y-pipe is 3" at the collector into the catalytic converter(single entry). I think the biggest restriction is the 2.5" piping after the cat.

No worries. I only mentioned that "google it" part because there are COUNTLESS newboo and non-newboo members that want you to grab there hand and walk them threw every step. Not because they can't do it, rather because there just lazy.
What about making a jig to make your own safety wire bolts? After all, they're not taking alot of tension. It's just to avoid having to re-torque every month.
The passenger side is really easy. The drivers side is a HUGE PITA.
No offense taken on your comment bud. I have considered a safety wire jig but they are pricey too and the colbalt drill bits are really expensive. I may look in my works bench stock for some 5/6'' -18 x 1'' L bolts that are already 12 point.

I have a set of Gibson headers on my truck. Tip; you will need to grind down the box end of a 7/16 box wrench you will need this to get to four of the bolts(its to thick to fit between the pipe and bolt head). I pulled out the rad fan and the rad shroud and stood in there to work. When I install headers I remove the spark plugs and then put in old ones just in case I break one off. In the four years they have been on my truck I have never had a bolt back out or a gasket blow out. All of the hardware and gaskets are Gibson. I just had the headers off to do some head work and reused the gaskets and bolts and have zero leaks. I would go with Gibson gaskets and bolts, it's your choice in the end.
Good to know and thanks for the tips.
 
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
You should do something about the y-pipe while you are in there. That's where the big restriction is.
My headers both feed directly to two inputs on my cat? does the 96 not have a y pipe or do I not have a stock cat?
 
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
My headers both feed directly to two inputs on my cat? does the 96 not have a y pipe or do I not have a stock cat?
Yeah, that's the stock setup, where those two pipes squeeze into the cat is where the major restriction is at. Magnaflow makes a direct fit high flow cat that is far superior to the stock system, they also make a 'universal fit' dual inlet cat that uses the stock downpipes, but, doesn't have the major restriction at the inlet to the cat. yet a third option is an off-road y-pipe, that doesn't have a cat at all...... if you want/have to have one, get a maganaflow 3" SI/SO cat, and splice it into the pipe. That would be the best flowing solution. (of course, probably the most expensive too.....)
 


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