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Towing / Daily Driving

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Old 02-12-2012, 10:24 AM
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Hello

I just purchased a 1998 Ram 1500 with the 5.2 liter 5 speed (I believe the NV3500) 4x4 with 120k miles. I have some questions.

I plan one using the truck as my second vehicle and also for towing my race car (around 5000 to 6000 lbs with gear,car and trailer).

The clutch is original ,so I want to replace it, and I plan on checking the brakes. What should I look at to make sure this truck can handle these duties.

I plan on getting the build sheet on Monday scanning it and posting it on this thread. Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks,
Carlin
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:17 PM
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Checking breaks is a good idea . You may also want to check the plenum gasket to make sure it is good. You may want ot check to make sure cat is good and not clogging. Getting a SCT tune form hemifever.com will eliminate the death flash. I would also test the TPS and make sure it is smooth and consistent. And good tires are essential.

What are you racing?
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:24 PM
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you will be fine towing with the 5.2, i just towed a jeep grand cherokee the other day on a 18' tandem axle car trailer and it towed fine. a little sluggish on inclines, but i have the slushbox, where-as you have the 5 speed.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Getting a SCT tune form hemifever.com will eliminate the death flash.
Not in a '98. But some kind of tuning to allow the engine to make the power it's designed to make would be good. I'd want to talk to Sean about the towing application -- the most aggressive timing curves might be a tad much for towing.

In addition to what's been mentioned already, I'd check out the front and rear suspension and steering components, including the bushings. Slop in those parts can allow the towed vehicle to take control, and even if it never gets control constantly fighting with it is tiring.

If you find the steering tends to wiggle or wander when towing even though everything is right and tight, you might think about installing both the Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix and a steering stabilizer like this one (from Solid Steel):



It relieves the torsional loading of the steering box sector shaft, so you're not constantly correcting for dynamic steering geometry changes that are a fact of life for solid axle 4x4's. You'll still be correcting for them, but not nearly so much.

To keep the rear end nice and stable (so it can't push around the front end) you might look into the Roadmaster Active Suspension.

For a semi-dedicated towing rig, myself, I would do all of these things, and add in a load leveling (AKA weight distributing) hitch if there's not one installed already. Then I'd put the thing on the road and love the fact that my trailer sits back there behaving like a hole in the air as it should.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:01 PM
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Possibly a set of firestone air springs? still gatta install mine can't wait.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:03 PM
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Got trailer brakes?

Even if you do, upgrading the fronts to use the 2500LD calipers and pads, and the GM 3/4 ton wheel cylinders in the back wouldn't be a bad idea. Make sure you have a close look at the brake line going to the rear, they like to rust and break. If it looks original, just replace it.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
Checking breaks is a good idea . You may also want to check the plenum gasket to make sure it is good. You may want ot check to make sure cat is good and not clogging. Getting a SCT tune form hemifever.com will eliminate the death flash. I would also test the TPS and make sure it is smooth and consistent. And good tires are essential.

What are you racing?
would you want to eliminate torque management hauling that load? As Hemifever tunes eliminate the torque management. Sean recommended that I switch to the stock setting when towing. I had asked him for a "torque/towing" canned tune and that is when he said to just go with the stock tune.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CPTAFW163
would you want to eliminate torque management hauling that load? As Hemifever tunes eliminate the torque management. Sean recommended that I switch to the stock setting when towing. I had asked him for a "torque/towing" canned tune and that is when he said to just go with the stock tune.

I did not think of that....looks like I will be contacting Sean again...changing tune everytime I tow a trailer would be a PITA...but I may need to check it out and see.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:12 PM
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Ok I am going to check into the suggested items above and I will check the brake line and look into the brake swap mentioned. The trailer I have now doesn't have brakes but I am looking at one this next week that does and also has a tire rack. To answer the question above I just got into road racing this will be my second year. I have had 9 second trucks and cars and I want to give something else a shot. I forsee down the road I might get into some off roading but I have learned one motor sport at a time.
 
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gdstock
I did not think of that....looks like I will be contacting Sean again...changing tune everytime I tow a trailer would be a PITA...but I may need to check it out and see.
it only takes 2 minutes....but another step nonetheless.

Pulling a HEAVY trailer might be useful to change tunes. And especially when the bed is loaded with some decent weight (weight over axle).

But towing a small boat, or some 4x4 toys...probably not needed as much.

I would think that if you need a trailer with a brake system, then you SHOULD be running torque management.
 


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