So after some research and reading I've found some information that might help explain what could have been happening.

Then this article about not running stainless steel valves in cast iron guides.

​​​​​​​

 

Right now I've got the electric fan temperature sensor in the upper radiator hose & to be honest I really wish I could put it someplace else. The Air Gap has a hole that is tapped for a 1/8" NPT and I'm considering drilling & tapping it for a 3/8" NPT and move the sensor there but am not sure how much of a difference the temperature would be between the upper radiator hose location & right before the thermostat?

 

Yep, that would explain a lot, and likely means your bronze valve guides should solve that particular issue.

The water before the stat will be slightly warmer...... if you are using it to control the fan though, don't you want to see the temp in the radiator??? Is it even possible?

 

Yes it really would. Why only that one cylinder was acting up I don't know but hopefully this will fix it.


I have the sensor in the upper radiator hose I just dislike how it looks. The only other option would be to have a bung welded onto the radiator itself. Drilling and tapping the intake is the easiest option.
Since I'm running the stock 195* thermostat & the sensor is a 215* for the fan to be @ 100% and it is a variable speed sensor and comes on @ 5% at 20* below it's rated temp (215*) the fan would just becoming on when the thermostat opened. Once it's opened it would then be reading close to what the radiator temp is?

 

Hhhhmmmm.... Drilling and tapping the radiator really doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Locating it on the intake likely IS the best option. Temps there should never hit 215 though..... I suppose, run with it, and see what happens. If temps stay reasonable, live with it. If it gets hotter than you like, can you get a lower temp variable switch? Or modify that fan duty cycle curve?

 

They only sell them in certain temp ranges: 185* or 195* or 215* Brushless Fan Temperature Switch (wizardcooling.com) At $240 a pop I don't want to have to buy one unless I need it. The one I have right now went bad and I'm waiting to find out how to return it for warranty. I think I'll try it in the intake and then if it doesn't work like I hope I'll put it back in the upper radiator hose.

I'll wait until I can talk to the machine shop but while they are doing the valve stem guides I figure I'll have them do a valve job too? 3 angle or 5 angle if they can?

I've got some other things I want to do to the Jeep while the heads are in the shop but I'll also pull the pan and check clearance on the bearings. Hopefully by the time I get the heads back I'll have most of the other stuff done to the Jeep.

 

Valve job wouldn't hurt. 3 angle will likely be adequate to the task, not like this is a high RPM motor.

 

Heads are dropped off with the machine shop. The head tech wasn't there yet but they said they will call me once they have had a chance to look at the heads and see if they can figure out what is happening.
Interestingly they said they don't normally use bronze guides but instead use other types. They counter guy couldn't tell me for sure what they are made of but did say they would be OK. So I should hear something in the next few days as to what is going on and how much this is going to cost me.

I've got another VA appointment tomorrow so I'll work on the Jeep some today and then Wednesday.

 

Dang Nab It anyhow....

When I'd bought these EQ heads they were supposed to be setup for .530 worth of lift and the guy who sold them to me I'd swear told me they were good for more lift. And then when I had the engine work done I'd taken them the heads and asked them to check the heads out and verify that they were good for the cam I was going to run.

So the machine shop called me just a while ago and they've identified the problem...... The freaking springs aren't even good enough for .480 lift.... #!*@ Then I guess the added issue is these valves are longer than stock magnum heads so they're having issues finding springs that can work. They're going to call Comp & Hughes Engines & UTA tomorrow see if they have any springs that will work. So at least we now know what was wrong with the heads. Why only that one valve had issues I'm not sure but I guess at this point it really doesn't matter.

Here's the #3 main bearing. The bearing surface is smooth even though it doesn't look that way in the pictures.



Tried to get a different angle..



Crank journal.



I didn't have any Green plastigauge left.



@ .002 it's still within tolerance for clearance. It was a major PITA to get that main cap retorqued again so I didn't pull any of the other caps.

 

Well, one problem solved at least.....

Do you have the engine out? If so, pull the timing cover, and have a look at the front of the block. If I am reading things correctly, the cam retainer plate *should* be covering the holes for the lifter gallery oil passages..... Is that indeed the case? Could pressure be leaking around that plate?