5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 162
From: Cle Elum, WA
This is from Hughes Engines web site. It is #9 in the list.
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...tionsheets.php
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/...trokerKits.pdf
http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArt...tionsheets.php
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/...trokerKits.pdf
Oiling system:
Small Blocks
Many times the mounting surface for the oil pump on the main cap is not level. Grind or mill it flat and do not use a gasket.
The oil passage from the pump does not line up with the passage in the main cap. Grind out this stepover area in the cap to
prevent a restriction here. The 360 is worse than the 340. Restrict the oil flow through cam bearings #1 - #3 - #5 only by drilling a
new 1/8 oil hole in the cam bearing and then install bearing with this new, smaller hole aligned with the feed passage from the
mains. Run a straight ผ reamer(our P/N 8350) completely through the main bearing oil feed passages #1 -#3 - #5 coming down
from the right hand lifter oil galley. Run a 9/32 reamer (P/N 8352) completely through the #2 - #4 main bearing feed passages. The
intersection of the large threaded oil passage, from the center of the oil filter to the main passage running to the rear of the block is
very rough in many cases. Smooth out all the rough spots and sharp edges in the intersection. Do not attempt to drill the passages
deeper. Water is close by.
If you are using our main stud girdle, it needs to clear all rotating parts by .030.
A standard volume oil pump will supply enough oil to a 700 HP engine with the above modifications, a windage tray and 5
quarts of oil in the pan. We suggest our oil pan P/N 20710 for 340s and P/N 20730 for 360s; both use screen, P/N #6907. For more
ground clearance you can use pan #31590 on the 340 and 31595 on the 360. Position screen 5/16 to 3/8 from the bottom of the
pan. Oil pressure of 9# per 1000 RPM is adequate. Maximum pressure over 65 P.S.I. is not recommended.
Small Blocks
Many times the mounting surface for the oil pump on the main cap is not level. Grind or mill it flat and do not use a gasket.
The oil passage from the pump does not line up with the passage in the main cap. Grind out this stepover area in the cap to
prevent a restriction here. The 360 is worse than the 340. Restrict the oil flow through cam bearings #1 - #3 - #5 only by drilling a
new 1/8 oil hole in the cam bearing and then install bearing with this new, smaller hole aligned with the feed passage from the
mains. Run a straight ผ reamer(our P/N 8350) completely through the main bearing oil feed passages #1 -#3 - #5 coming down
from the right hand lifter oil galley. Run a 9/32 reamer (P/N 8352) completely through the #2 - #4 main bearing feed passages. The
intersection of the large threaded oil passage, from the center of the oil filter to the main passage running to the rear of the block is
very rough in many cases. Smooth out all the rough spots and sharp edges in the intersection. Do not attempt to drill the passages
deeper. Water is close by.
If you are using our main stud girdle, it needs to clear all rotating parts by .030.
A standard volume oil pump will supply enough oil to a 700 HP engine with the above modifications, a windage tray and 5
quarts of oil in the pan. We suggest our oil pan P/N 20710 for 340s and P/N 20730 for 360s; both use screen, P/N #6907. For more
ground clearance you can use pan #31590 on the 340 and 31595 on the 360. Position screen 5/16 to 3/8 from the bottom of the
pan. Oil pressure of 9# per 1000 RPM is adequate. Maximum pressure over 65 P.S.I. is not recommended.
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 162
From: Cle Elum, WA
Pictures are worth a thousand words I tell you what. They(the pics) helped me to determin that the builder had no clue on what he was doing. DO NOT use gappless rings with KB HYPER slugs. Without the top ring there is no point. KB Hyper slugs require a ring gap factor (not factory spec) on the top ring or you will break the ring land. KB HYPER slugs dont expand as much to heat. There also slightly larger for a slightly tighter fit without the rings(less expansion)but with a proper ring gap should be no tighter then any other slug. You mentioned the slugs were tight to remove. This leaves me to believe that the builder did not follow KB ring gap factor. With long stroke motors(here where chattin about a mopar 408) where the slugs have a short compression height and the wrist pin leaves a gap there in the ring land. Special care needs to be taken with the oil control spacer. This spacer needs to be installed on the bottom to support the oil rings. Looking at your pictures the builder installed this spacer on the top. Big no no with these types of slugs and a factor why it burned oil in all cylinders as your pictures show. On Mopar small block strokers the bottom of the cylinder bores should be clearanced(grind small half moon) for the rod not the rod bolt or oil pan rail. Most of the time the rod doesnt hit the bore so nothing has to be done but the clearance there should be checked. Oiling and bearings. Full groove champfered bearings. Full groove for better oiling and champfered because well you have to with a stroker crank. oiling mods all over the block to help direct the oil were it needs to be. Like matching the oil pump to main cap. There is a slight off set there. Theres more but gotta chat about how cam timing changes the compression of a motor.
Come on now you pop in for one comment and that is it? Elaborate some on your comments please.
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 162
From: Cle Elum, WA
I'd really like to know what spacer he is talking about that is installed wrong. I've looked at the pistons and I don't see any spacer. I am going to get the reamers that Hughes Engines is talking about and do that to the engine. I'm also going to have new cam bearings installed the way they say to. Better safe than sorry right? I know you already had it running and if I hadn't dropped that damn piston I would most likely have put the engine back together and just installed it the way it was. But since I have it tore down I might as well make sure it will last.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 725
Likes: 2
From: Central Missouri
I'd really like to know what spacer he is talking about that is installed wrong. I've looked at the pistons and I don't see any spacer. I am going to get the reamers that Hughes Engines is talking about and do that to the engine. I'm also going to have new cam bearings installed the way they say to. Better safe than sorry right? I know you already had it running and if I hadn't dropped that damn piston I would most likely have put the engine back together and just installed it the way it was. But since I have it tore down I might as well make sure it will last.
I think this is the spacer he's referring to.
Captain
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 725
Likes: 2
From: Central Missouri
Normally yes, but with certain pistons the oil control ring groove is larger than normal and a spacer is used. If you look close you can see the gap in that spacer. The spacer is kind of red / brown and it's different from the land above it.
