Ok so it did it in R, broke free @ 1900-2000 & maxed out at approx 2100 with a four second hold time(don't think it would've gone higher if I held it longer anyways)..read your post and I think that means it's or..For the D test I didn't check for max so I'll do that one again and post the results..I'll also ck them mounts too...

 

Yeah this is good stuff cus it tests your tranny TC and as well the clutches in there.. the thing you want to see though because i mispoke before; is make sure you hold those wheels from spinning as what i posted outlined; we want to see the max RPM at WOT for 5 seconds it gets too.. To get my test right I had to use Emergency break as well as my foot really holding the throttle because she wanted to spin the tires.. (Which is good that means my engine has somepower.. LOL

 

Yeah the started to spin the rmp's I listed..no e break on tho..I did check the motor mounts and they look fine, no dryness/cracks and still have spunge to them..which is amazing to me got the rock auto package today so I'll pop them in and take er out for a tc retest...

 

your engine mounts are good but your replacing them anyways?

 

Eventually I guess, probably when I pull the oil pump..seeing as how I have to lift the engine to pull the pan

 

Nope no reason to do this, there is lot's of room under there.

 

OIL PAN REMOVAL
per service manual:
1-dissconnect the neg cable from batt
2-remove engine oil dipstick
3-raise vehicle
4-drain engine oil
5-remove exhaust pipe
6-remove left engine to transmission strut
7-loosen the right side engine support bracket cushion thru-bolt and
raise the engine slightly. Remove oil pan by sliding backward and out.
8-remove the one-piece gasket

For starters the left AND right side exhaust pipes (from e-manifolds to cat in's) are both welded to the cat so I don't know what they mean by 'remove' the left e-pipe..sure I could cut it but I don't have access to a welder..So you're saying I can just remove the bolts and drop the pan? Cause that would be freakin awesome!!

 

If you exhaust doesn't run under the pan, no need to mess with it. I did not have to raise the engine to drop the pan. First time was a two hour job, second time was less than an hour.

 

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html

Also, jack the front of the truck up by the frame under the radiator and let the axle hang and you'll have more than enough room.

 

Thanks guys! HeyYou that 1-2 hrs includes oil pump replacement also I hope? And no the e-pipe doesn't run under the pan! zman I like that site, I've been there before, lots of info..thanks for the link!