Rotfl

How is the fuel line setup on these trucks? Kinda need a window in the bed so I know what I'm getting into before I do doing dumb stuff, if I were to replace the leak with a section of rubber line rated for fuel, how long of a section would I need?

 

A few inches longer than the piece you take out is usually just about right.

There are some helpful drawings in the Fuel System section of the factory service manual that ought to show you what you need to know. Ain't much to it, really, and there's nothing unusual about it.

BUT: Keep in mind that worm drive (screw type) hose clamps would need to be tightened a couple of times after initial installation, and failing to do so could mean setting fire to your truck and lots of what's near it. Gasoline under that much pressure doesn't need much of an excuse to become a fine mist.

Personally, I'd spend a few bucks on a flaring tool, line bender, and some steel line and fittings. Those connections stay tight the first time. And ya get more stuff in the toolbox, which is reason enough in and of itself.

 

Well the other day when it was seeking, as far as I could tell it was probably leaking about where it would be coming out of the regulated pressure, there was some fuel that looked like it had sprayed down the side of the tank some maybe, but the majority of the leak was dripping down off the frame rail under the cab

So its gonna be fun to find this leak, gotta find it, come up with a game plan, then order pieces, then get it put together and see if that helps. Somewhere under the truck there had been fuel line work done or some kind of line work done because there's metal lines with unions on them so y'all know there will be pictures lmao

 

It may be too late to be useful information, but those cheapie endoscopes on eBay are really handy little widgets for seeing where your inspection mirror (or your head) won't go. If you've got an Android device with USB-To-Go support they're even better -- no need for a bigger device that's hard to deal with in cramped quarters. I use mine way more often than I ever thought I would.

More tools in the box is always a good thing. And even if it's not I've got to say it is because I've convinced my wife of it.

 

At this point in time I don't have the money to buy a borescope. Lol
I can see it helping in the future but not at this time due to finding the leak and fixing the leak are two different things. Lmao.

In my cart at advanced auto online u have pb blaster and a 10 inch pipe wrench. Will that pipe wrench be big enough to remove the o2 sensor (leverage wise. Lmao)

 

That's up to the rust. If you're careful about it, you can whack on that pipe wrench with a hammer to get some mechanical shock working in your favor. Knock it clockwise (tighter) just a bit first, not really enough to move it, then go the other way. Then rush off to the ER to get the metal splinters dug out of your eye, remember I said to be careful about it and get some safety glasses on the way home, and by the time you get back under there the penetrating oil you sprayed around before you started will have done its job and snuck into those cracks you made in the corrosion.

 

I ain't gonna need no stinkin goggles. Lmao

So tomorrow I'll probably get the pb blaster and stuff, soak the o2 sensor pretty good with blaster, find out what's up with my fuel leak, get the parts for it soak the o2 with blaster again, fix fuel leak, soak with pb again, maybe start it to heat it up some

But man the smell of pb blaster stiiiiiiinks its like diesel and moth ***** in one

 

But, it bubbles so nicely when you spray it on stuff. That, and it WORKS. So far, it is the best product I have found for rusty fasteners........

 

CRC Freeze-Off works really well too, and doesn't smell like diesel fuel and mothballs. It smells instead like the world's strongest urinal cake.

 

What about atf acetone