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1998 dodge ram. 360 rough idle. Need help

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  #61  
Old 01-23-2016, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bwally1996
What about atf acetone
In lab tests, the ATF/Acetone mix (50/50) worked the best. No idea what it smells like though.
 
  #62  
Old 01-23-2016, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
In lab tests, the ATF/Acetone mix (50/50) worked the best. No idea what it smells like though.


More flammable than the other choices? Don't try to add heat to the mix.
 
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:15 PM
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Probably smells like cat pee and paint thinner lmao

And yeah was a little worried that it would cause issues being on the exhaust. Too bad I can't get kroil at advanced auto
 
  #64  
Old 01-23-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bwally1996
And yeah was a little worried that it would cause issues being on the exhaust.
The flammable volatiles will evaporate long before your warming exhaust system can reach the chemical's flash point.

If you want to use the flame wrench, use it before spraying the canned cancer at the sticky parts. That's where the Freeze-Off really shines -- the metal talks to ya when the cold cancer hits the hot steel so you know you'll get capillary action of the penetrant in the cracks you're making in the corrosion layers. Making those cracks is the point of banging on things with a hammer, too.
 
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Old 01-23-2016, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
The flammable volatiles will evaporate long before your warming exhaust system can reach the chemical's flash point.

If you want to use the flame wrench, use it before spraying the canned cancer at the sticky parts. That's where the Freeze-Off really shines -- the metal talks to ya when the cold cancer hits the hot steel so you know you'll get capillary action of the penetrant in the cracks you're making in the corrosion layers. Making those cracks is the point of banging on things with a hammer, too.
Well hell yeah, i can't get the bed bolts out now so this is gonna be fun, I'm not comfortable dropping the tank either lol
 
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Old 01-23-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Bwally1996
I'm not comfortable dropping the tank either lol
It's not as scary as it seems if you can get the tank mostly empty first. It's usually easier to borrow the fuel tank of another vehicle than to find jerry cans enough for temporary storage. It seems to be some kind of universal law that gas tanks in need of removal are never less than half full...
 
  #67  
Old 01-23-2016, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
It's not as scary as it seems if you can get the tank mostly empty first. It's usually easier to borrow the fuel tank of another vehicle than to find jerry cans enough for temporary storage. It seems to be some kind of universal law that gas tanks in need of removal are never less than half full...

It's like something new every day lmao

So my o2 sensor has a wire broke out of it, I crawled under there and looked lmao

A sensor on the trans looks fubar I can see exposed wires

Rear 02 looks good

But now I have a question about the front driveshaft. Lmao

With both wheels off the ground (gotta love bottle jacks)
I can spin the passenger side forward (maybe can't remember)
But when I spin it back it kinda feels like it catches and spins the driveshaft going back to the transfer case

Driver side I think spins the transfer case shaft all the time


Including some pics from under the truck this time lmao









Oh yay a leak


 
  #68  
Old 01-23-2016, 06:51 PM
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Replace the O2 sensor.

Tape the wires. Or, cut/splice out the bad parts.

Your CAD isn't disengaging completely. It's vacuum powered, so, check that all the lines are good, and things are connected properly. On mine, the connector that goes on the actuator had swelled to the point that it didn't seal properly. Couple zip strips around it to squeeze it tight solved that issue.
 
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Replace the O2 sensor.

Tape the wires. Or, cut/splice out the bad parts.

Your CAD isn't disengaging completely. It's vacuum powered, so, check that all the lines are good, and things are connected properly. On mine, the connector that goes on the actuator had swelled to the point that it didn't seal properly. Couple zip strips around it to squeeze it tight solved that issue.
If I had the money right now (and of course I don't) I would get the cable actuated one to eliminate the vacuum crap, but, till I get the money can't do ****. Does it mean my truck is always stuck in 4wd? Or maybe I have a bad sensor? Or idk. This truck is starting to have too many problems but now I'm close to 2 grand into it with purchase price and parts. Ugh. Oh well

The shifter inside the truck shows going down into 4 low as having to move the shifter to the passenger side a little then down, mine dont go over at all but I can feel the notches (2wd, 4wd, n, 4low)
 
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:59 PM
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Shift gate is probably just worn, or dirty, or both.

The cad system, with a bit of attention, actually works just fine. Make sure all the vacuum lines are in good shape, blow the water/dirt/assorted other crap out of them, and it will engage/disengage almost instantaneously.

I was forced to do that to mine.... It froze up, and got me stuck.... So, stuff it in the garage, point the torpedo heater at it for an hour, blow out the lines, fix the leaks, and it works great.
 


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