Hello Again, I searched through past threads for a link to a website for a rebuilt ABS. What it's doing is not allowing fluid to the rear brakes. I had the code in the past ( few months ago) when I ran my scanner but nothing was showing on the dash but that has changed after replacing the rear brakes it now lights up when brakes are pushed and brake light is on dash. I'm trying to get the link again for a rebuilt one. Ran through breaking lines loos to see what was going on it came down to no fluid from the valve side of the abs block to the rear. Thanks

 

Just FYI, there should be plenty of them in the salvage yards. I have to replace the ABS block with two solenoids on my truck at some point soon and found a couple in the pick and pay yard pretty cheap.

 

They are a hit and miss here with so very few in junk yards. Ended up just getting one off eBay with a 2 yr warranty $53 bucks. Found Module Master after posting here but they are going to be closed for 7 day's for Thanksgiving so I didn't want to wait that long right now. The ebay guy had really good feedback so I thought I would give him a try. Should be here 4 days max. We only have a couple of you pulls here anymore. The rest are they pull, you pay more type. Miss the day's when all were you pull. lol Thanks You.

 

The eBay route is a good one as well when you can find a part at a reasonable price. Luckily, I'm in the central VA area, so little to no major rust here in this area. We don't tend to get a lot of snow, so little salt is used on the roads in this general area, unless its a bad winter.

From what I've seen in the pick and pay yards, those ABS modules seem to be the same or very similar across several Dodge models (Durango, Ram, Dakota, etc.).

 

2 or 4 wheel ABS??

May just still have some air in the lines.

 

2 Wheel. My reader has been saying something ABS circuit problem but never was for sure since I didn't get any dash lights and it seemed fine till today. He broke a few lines loose checking fluid movement. All lines are working except for the line going to the rear. The block that ABS controls is getting fluid but not sending anything other then at best a trickle of fluid out. My code reader was saying something about a circuit being bad or stuck but nothing on the dash or how the truck was driving seemed to alert me until today. I pulled into their parking lot for the first time seeing brake light on dash and when you press the brake ,the ABS light came on. As you can see my explaining isn't the best. lol. My guess is the would be the module closed the line since nothing but a trickle is getting past the block it controls. Either side isn't getting any fluid. He checked the part in the rear and it wasn't blocked. Since both his and my reader were saying the same thing. I just feel it's not a bad investment to replace the module and see if this fixes the issue and go from there.

 

If you bled the rears, but, not the fronts, it may just be the proportioning valve is displaced, turning on the brake light. If it only comes on when you step on the brake, that implies there is still air in the lines.

 

Heck I live in FL so we don't get any. lol. Where I live , we only have two yards you can pull your own parts. Butler is the big boy around here and they cater more to business side then your do it yourself guys. The people working there depend on what the computer tells them. I would bet most of them don't even work on their cars. lol.

 

We never got any fluid back to the rear so really never bled them. Brake peddle is hard. Basically I believe all I was using when I brought it back home was front brakes. Thankful I only had to drive it maybe 5 minutes. Brake light stay's on the ABS come on when applying brakes. All that was done was brakes and calipers on the rear with all new hardware.

 

Need to bleed the rears then. But, start by bleeding the FRONT. Pump 'em up, hold heavy pressure on the pedal, crack open a bleeder valve in FRONT. That will shock the proportion valve to allow flow to the rear. (might have to do it a couple times.)