I was thinking about doing that, since it does kinda stick, and my IACV was really built up. Now, I know I can't use carb cleaner on our intake since it's not the same thing or can I? Is there something else I should use? I remember somewhere saying brake cleaner?

 

Yes, carb cleaner is what you want to you use...you can substitute brake fluid if you HAVE to, just don't use as much and wipe it off quickly... Additionally, remove all sensors when using cleaners like that...they can be damaged. CRC makes both a good brake, carb, annnnnd eletrical part cleaner...which is safe on parts that have sensors that can be damaged

 

Now that you put it that way, it sounds almost normal. But I wouldn't expect the idle to be strong enough to carry the truck for very long, not on an automatic. unless going slightly down hill. The egr tube comes from the egr valve to the intake, it's the bend metal tube. And yea, an intake leak was what I was thinking but since its the "in-gear" and coasting rpm with zero throttle that you're talking about, it is probably normal. Stopped at a light or in neutral/park should be 700ish though.

 

At a stationary idle, your rpm should be around 700. If you have an idle rpm of around 1000 & you rev it up & the idle drops slowly or stays high for a second or 2 and then slowly drops, the engine most likely has a leak somewhere in it's intake system.

A vacuum leak like this can be easily checked by an inexpensive vacuum gauge - the vacuum reading can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine. The gauge gets hooked up at a convenient point on the manifold. Here's a link to a good starter on vacuum gauge diagnostics.

If you do have a vacuum leak, there are quite a few sites that describe how to find it. If you choose to use one of the methods using a volatile or flammable spray of some type, be really careful not to set the whole engine on fire - it's not hard to do.

 

When this happens, have you tried lifting the accelerator pedal w/your foot to see if it slows down?

 

I was so happy when my CEL came on today, it showed up as P0507, but later on in the day it turned off and my idle went back to normal. It's still slugging when I slowly accelerate, but my CEL went off. I bought some carb cleaner, I'm going to clean my intake tomorrow when it cools down

 

I recommend removing the throttle body to clean it, and take the IAC valve off, might as well take the TPS off too, since it's just a couple screws. Then blast the crap out of it. Don't shoot into the intake manifold

 

That's what I'm thinking about doing tomorrow morning. I really need this crap done with, I'm tired of it. I even put my superchip to stock to see if that'd help. Gosh I miss the tune up! Runs like crap right now, I also need to run premium soon again, it purred like a kitten

 

Ok so what are my options if 1 of the bolts broken off on the EGR valve and the other one the head is stripped out? only 86,000 miles on this 4.7

 

I know this is an old thread, but I’m trying to swap out mine.

I’m so close. I’ve got a good angle on it, but it’s so seized I can’t get it. I’ve been soaking with seafoam deep creep but not seeing any signs of freeing up.

Don’t have any welding equipment, so I grabbed a propane torch. I mustered up some courage and tried it, but two things:

1. It keeps igniting a couple small flames that I can quickly blow out. I think under the valve covers. Not sure what’s burning? I don’t think it’s the seafoam.

2. I noticed after my third or fourth attempt (short bursts only…) that I’m working kind of close to my fuel injection line. 😮

So now I’m paralyzed. Trying to think of a way to add heat without an open flame. Maybe I could heat up a hot poker and transfer some of that via contact? Or something like that?

All I can picture is Jay Leno in the hospital right now. 😂

One other thing: I’m not even sure I need to replace my EGR valve. I have a 2008 Dodge Dakota Crew Cab 4.7L Laramie.

I’ve had it since 2010 with just 11k miles on it. I’ve changed my oil religiously with partial synthetic and then full synthetic after 80k miles.

I’ve rec bolt been towing a 4k lbs. travel trailer around the country for the past year. Noticed it was using a little oil on the last trip. Runs fine.

Then, just recently noticed some blue smoke after startup. Figured the motor was finally done at 156k miles. But the smoke only happens just after start up. And sometimes when accelerating—but not all the time. Like only when I first take off. I can’t reproduce it. It didn’t smoke when revving engine, or accelerating after being warmed up.

Then I replaced the PCV valve just to see if that made a difference, and it really seemed to.

So, I decided to replace my spark plugs and get this: I had replaced them at 80k and never even knew I had 16!! So I had only ever replaced eight in the lower bank. So the other 8 were factory with 156k. (Yep…. They were pretty burnt and so were the Iridiums I put in. Huge gaps. Supposed to be .39 and they were like .78)

So, now the truck is running smooth. No smoke observed since changing the pcv. I’m getting ready to head out west again, so I thought I’d change this EGR valve just to be safe.

Any thoughts?