My friend has a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L V6 with 90,000 miles on it. He asked me to look it over because the engine was making a whining noise for a long time and now it just started to shudder whenever he turns left at slow speed or at a stop, engine at low idle.

I found threads that suggested replacing the power steering reservoir because the filter tends to get clogged up, causing problems. So I did that, and flushed out the old fluid with new Mopar ATF+4, hoping this would correct both problems. Well, it did get rid of the whining noise, but the steering shudder still remains. In fact, if I work it hard enough, I can get the shudder on both left and right turns. No shudder when engine is running faster, just at slow idle though.

Found a TSB for this vehicle covering steering shudder. After reading it through, because it has no power steering fluid finned cooler now, I would need to replace the simple aluminum loop line with the finned cooler, and add a longer hose, to correct the problem.

Now here is my question: The vehicle has run for 6 years and 89,000 miles with its current short hose and aluminum tube cooler without a shudder. It recently developed the shudder - telling me something changed from time the shudder didn't exist to now when it does. The old aluminum tube cooler and short hose are constant (haven't changed them yet). Why did this shudder just develop now? And why should I believe a finned cooler and a longer return hose will solve the problem?

If anyone has any experience with this or knows any of these answers, I would really appreciate it. I don't want to spend my friend's money foolishly, and I don't want to do needless work.

BTW, I did put a pin hole in the accordion bellows on each side of the power steering rack, just to see if the rack has developed any leaks, and it has not.

Any inputs/advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

This is one of many TSB for steering problems. If you would the rest of them, i can send them by email. I would just need an email address to send it too.
SUBJECT:
Steering Shudder
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing one of the two power steering cooler hoses with a new
longer power steering hose and if necessary, installing a fin packed power steering cooler.
MODELS:
2001 - 2005 (RS) Town & Country, Caravan, Voyager
2001 - 2005 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)
NOTE: This bulletin applies to right hand and left hand drive vehicles equipped with
a 3.3L or 3.8L engine (sales code EGA, EGM, EGH) built on or before
December 8, 2004 (MDH 1208XX)
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
A shudder (vibration) is felt inside the vehicle while turning the steering wheel at idle or
during low speeds such as a parking lot maneuver. The shudder may be felt in the steering
wheel, seat, and/or body.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Verify the condition: - Perform stationary turns and/or low speed turns in drive and
reverse. Perform the evaluation with the A/C in the on and off position. Is steering
shudder detected?
a. Yes >> Go to Step #2.
b. No >> Further diagnosis is needed, this bulletin does not apply.
2. Inspect for the presence of a power steering finned cooler. Is a finned cooler
present?
a. Yes >> Go to “Replace Power Steering Hose - Step #1”.
b. No. >> Go to “Install Finned Cooler - Step #1”.
NUMBER: 19-006-05
GROUP: Steering
DATE: August 4, 2005
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
AR 05135964AA 11/32" Hose, Bulk Power Steering Return
Vehicles built on or before September 13, 2004
(MDH 0913XX)
One roll will service multiple vehicles
AR 04364392 5/8" or 11/16" Convolute Tubing
Vehicles built on or before September 13, 2004
(MDH 0913XX)
One roll will service multiple vehicles
AR (1) 04743473AE Line, Power Steering Return, With Cooler
AR
(2 Straps)
04856501
(Package of 50 straps)
Tie Strap, Cable Tie
One package will service multiple vehicles
AR 05166226AA Fluid, Power Steering (MS9602)
INSTALL FINNED COOLER:
CAUTION: Throughout the following procedure, special care should be taken to
prevent introducing contamination into the power steering system.
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the cap from the power steering fluid reservoir.
3. Using a siphon pump/suction gun, remove as much power steering fluid as possible
from the power steering fluid reservoir.
4. Remove and save the constant tension spring clamp securing the power steering
return line hose to the power steering fluid reservoir.
5. Remove the rubber hose portion of the power steering return line from the power
steering fluid reservoir fitting.
6. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir into an appropriate container.
NOTE: This fluid should not be reused to avoid introducing contamination from the
container.
7. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.
8. Remove the fuel vapor canister.
9. Locate the bracket connecting the power steering return line cooler loop to the cradle
reinforcement plate (Fig. 1).
19-006-05 -2-
Fig. 1 POWER STEERING COOLER LOOP
1 - SUSPENSION CRADLE 5 - COOLER LOOP MOUNTING FASTENERS (SAVE FOR
FINNED COOLER INSTALLATION)
2 - J/U NUT CLIP (DISCARD) 6 - PRESSURE LINE
3 - CRADLE REINFORCEMENT PLATE 7 - COOLER LOOP (DISCARD)
4 - FUEL VAPOR CANISTER 8 - SWAY BAR
10. Remove the fasteners connecting the cooler line to the reinforcement plate. Save the
fasteners for use in Step #17.
11. Locate the bracket connecting the power steering pressure line to the cradle
reinforcement plate (Fig. 1).
12. Remove the fastener connecting the bracket to the reinforcement plate. Save the
fastener for use in Step #18.
13. Remove and discard the J/U nut clip on the bracket.
14. Locate and unscrew the tube nut connecting the power steering return line to the
steering gear pinion housing.
NOTE: The tube nut will remain loosely assembled to the power steering return line.
15. Drain the remaining fluid into an appropriate container and discard the loop cooler line
that was removed from the vehicle.
NOTE: This fluid should not be reused to avoid introducing contamination from the
container.
16. Install the new power steering return line, p/n 04743473AE. Attach the power steering
return line tube nut to the steering gear pinion housing and tighten to 27.1 - 35.0 Nˇm
(240 - 310 in. lbs.).
17. Reuse the fastener removed in Step #10. Install the fastener into the left weld nut on
the cooler fin pack bracket and the left hole in the cradle reinforcement plate. Tighten
the fastener to 9 - 11.3 Nˇm (80-100 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
-3- 19-006-05
Fig. 2 POWER STEERING FINNED COOLER
1 - FINNED COOLER FASTENERS (INSTALLED POINTING UPWARD)
2 - SWING THE PRESSURE LINE CLAMP BACK INTO POSITION WITHOUT THE J/U NUT
3 - FINNED COOLER
18. Line up the pressure line bracket and the right weld nut in the cooler fin pack bracket.
Reuse the fastener removed in Step #12. Install the fastener through the right hole in
the cradle reinforcement plate, the fin pack bracket and the pressure line bracket.
Tighten the fastener to 9 - 11.3 Nˇm (80-100 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
19. Install the fuel vapor canister.
20. Lower the vehicle.
21. Install the constant tension spring clamp removed in Step #4 onto the rubber hose on
the power steering return line. Slide the clamp so that it is 3 inches from the end of the
rubber hose.
22. Push the end of the rubber hose portion of the power steering return line onto the
power steering fluid reservoir suction port. Secure the hose by sliding the constant
spring tension clamp installed on the hose in the last step, to within 6 mm (0.25 in.) of
the end of the rubber hose. Be sure the hose clamp is installed past the bead on
fluid reservoir fitting.
23. Check the vehicle production date. Was the vehicle built on or before September
13, 2004 (MDH 091344XX)?
a. Yes >> Go to “Replace Power Steering Hose - Step #1”.
b. No >> Go to “Steering/Pump - Standard Procedure - Step #1”.
19-006-05 -4-
REPLACE POWER STEERING HOSE:
1. Cut 850 mm (33.5 in.) of power steering hose (p/n 05135964AA) or equivalent.
2. Cut 790 mm (31 in.) of 15.9mm (5/8 in.) or 17.5 mm (11/16 in.) convolute tubing. Place
the convolute tubing around the power steering hose.
3. Open hood and remove the power steering reservoir cap.
4. Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.
5. Locate the power steering cooler attached to the crossmember support. Remove the
forward (closest to front of vehicle) hose from the cooler and tube. Drain the power
steering fluid in an appropriate container.
6. Remove the two tension clamps from the removed hose and install on the new power
steering return hose.
7. Install the new hose and tension clamp onto the power steering cooler.
8. Wrap the hose clockwise around the perimeter and on top of the power steering cooler
as shown in (Fig. 3). Install the hose and tension clamp to the power steering return
tube.
Fig. 3 HOSE ROUTING - STANDARD COOLER ON LEFT, H/D COOLER ON RIGHT
1 - COOLER RETURN TUBE (CLOSEST TO FRONT OF
VEHICLE)
4 - TIE STRAP LOCATIONS
2 - RETURN TUBE TO RESERVOIR 5 - POWER STEERING COOLER
3 - CROSSMEMBER SUPPORT 6 - POWER STEERING COOLER HOSE (ROUTE CLOCKWISE)
9. Use two tie straps to strap the return hose to the power steering cooler and pressure
steering hose shown in (Fig. 3).
10. Lower vehicle and open hood.
11. Proceed to “Steering/Pump - Standard Procedure”.
-5- 19-006-05
STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE
WARNING:FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED AND ADJUSTED WITH ENGINE
OFF TO PREVENT INJURY FROM MOVING ENGINE COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: Use only MoparŽ ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid (MS-9602) in
power steering system. Use of other MoparŽ power steering fluids
(MS5931 and MS9933) should be avoided to ensure peak performance of
the power steering system under all operating conditions. Do not overfill.
Read the fluid level through the side of the power steering fluid reservoir. The fluid level
should be within “FILL RANGE” when the fluid is at a temperature of approximately 21°C
to 27°C (70°F to 80°F).
1. Wipe the filler cap and area clean, then remove the cap.
2. Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two (2)
minutes.
3. Start the engine and let run for a few seconds, then turn the engine off.
4. Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps until the fluid level remains constant
after running the engine.
5. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
6. Start the engine.
7. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops.
8. Add fluid if necessary.
9. Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel slowly from lock-to-lock.
10. Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
11. If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat
the above procedure.

 

Thanks, Master Tech. Actually, this is the exact TSB that I have, which a Dodge parts person gave me (so I have the pictures as well).

But my main question is, if the van ran for 6 years and 90,000 miles without any shudder, why would it now need the parts from this TSB to solve? Something changed within the last 1,000 miles of use that initited this shudder. And the loop cooler and short hose is not the change (they were on there from when the van was made back in Dec. 2003). So why the shudder now, and why would the finned cooler and the longer return hose solve the problem?

I guess that is my main question - as I have doubts why these parts would solve a shudder now when there was no shudder up to 1,000 miles ago and it didn't need these new parts.

Have any insights that can help me?

 

The shudder is normally caused by air being introduced into the system. the plugged screen causes the fluid to aireate and then you get fluid pulsations in the lines that cause the shudder. The long rubber hose is supposed to absorbe the pulsations so you don't feel it but I have had little success with it. These systems are very poor at bleeding the air out so it might get better over time or it might not. It is pretty common and will not hurt anything so if you can live with it, it's your cheapest option.

 

OK, so this makes sense as to what changed now. The partially plugged screen in the power steering reservoir caused pump cavitation, which aireates the fluid, which causes pockets of air to stay in the system (if the system doesn't bleed out well). I know I tried the typical slow turn to the farthest right, then fartherst left, and on for 5-8 consecutive times to bleed the system (works on other power steering systems), but maybe this one, it doesn't so well.

Given this logic, where in the system does the air remain trapped? Is it in the steering rack? In the hoses? I don't undertand the hoses, because there is a pretty good flow of fluid through them all the time. But does the rack hold the air and doesn't bleed well? If so, would tipping the van a little to the passenger side, then doing the 5-8 slow, complete turns of the steering wheel, then do the same by tipping the van to the driver side, would that improve the bleeding process?

Somehow, the factory got the air out of these during manufacture (the entire system had air in it when the individual parts were made). How did the factory get all the air out of it?

 

Mopar has a special tool that is a rubber stopper with a nipple on it. I connect a vacumn pump to it and pull a vacumn on the system until the air bubbles stop comming out.

 

Tizzy1, this is good information to know. What is the Mopar part no. for this special tool, and can I get it from a Mopar parts counter?

Also, where is this special tool installed?

Regarding the vacuum pump, is a simple A/C air evacuation vacuum pump sufficient to connect to this special tool?

 

the tool number is 9688, you should be able to ge one from a dealer. I use an a/c vacumn pump when I do it. You take the fill cap off of the reservoir and put the rubber stopper in the opening. You also need a fluid seperator like you would use if you vacumn bleed brakes to keep fluid from being sucked into the pump. The following is a TSB that came out in '05 for the revised bleeding proceedure.

-3- 19-008-05 REV. A