Busy week. Not on the truck, but at work and home. I got the other side cut out today, but thats about all I did. Im waiting on some flap discs to get here, and the wife went to work, so I need to stay inside with the little one.

Im trying an old camera, so I hope the pictures look okay. Im sick of google and the limits on space, and the tracking and biased searches and well...just about everything really. I got a notice the other day that my phone will no longer be supported after the 1st of the year, so Im trying this old camera. If it works, Ill get a de-googled or unlocked phone and kick google to the curb.

Goal for tomorrow is weld in the other bottom plates, clean it all up, and maybe put the rearend back in place. I bought some seam sealer, so I should be able to make everything look okay now. Im slowly getting there, should finish this notch tomorrow. Then its on to the front suspension. Im also getting stuff going for the f100 to try and make it road worthy. Im going to take it to a transmission shop and have them look at the shifter linkage where it goes into the side of the transmission. It looks like it has a lot of slop to me. Im also going to get a tailgate, which is redily available on facebook marketplace (my wifes account). I was surprised how easy to find and cheap they were, compared to the dodges. And a 67 is a one year only. Others will work, but the 67 is different.

 

I finished everything I wanted to accomplish today. Ill show the progress, but I think I have yet another issue. Ill mention that last.

I got the c-notch finished up. Instead of grinding all the welds and metal, I figured I would just go over them with a seam sealer. Itll make it look better, but it wont weaken the notch. Ill primer it soon, and paint it also, but I think I have to fix something first. I also got the rearend put back in. I have all kinds of clearance for dropping the truck now, and the mounts fit great. Im really happy with this notch. I also tacked the tow hitch back on with a 2 x 3 box and it looks like itll be okay. Ill put the bed back on to make sure, then Ill box it, run some supports and bars and brace it up really good. I also replaced the bolts in the 4-link with longer ones, (they are grade 5 just like the others, but these have a nice finish-maybe nickel) because the bolts that came with it were too short and didnt get into the nylon lock of the nuts. Everything is bolted in and tightened up now.

The issue is clearance between the spring and the notch plates. Ill post a picture, but it is maybe 1/16-1/8 of an inch each side, and that doesnt seem like enough to me. I have a few options- get longer upper shock mounts....move the mounting hole outward (weld it up, and drill it to the outside by a little....or space up the shock mount with a plate. Im not sure but I think I might get longer shock mounts.

I know some people watching this might be shaking their heads wondering why Im making these mistakes, and I admit it gets a little frustrating at times. But Im learning a ton on this build, and if it takes a few re-dos well then its fine. Im hoping to continue improving on my welding, and fabrication and maybe one day build a frame from scratch for this truck. Im gonna drive it for awhile, and then get the f100 going, but after the body work is done, and we are happy with this truck, Im going to try and build a frame. At least making mistakes, Im learning what NOT to do as much as learning what to do. So its all good.

Drivers side all welded up

All bolted back together with the hitch tacked in. The hitch is 2" lower now.

Plenty of clearance for the suspension now.

Sitting on its shocks but only in the back. I have plenty of adjustment now.

This is the issue- its only about 1/8 of an inch between the springs and the frame now.

 

So I was thinking about this and I might have a few other options. Im sure this isnt enough clearance.

First option-when I ordered the front shock mounts, I accidentally ordered 4 instead of two. With a little trimming, these would work. They have a radius in them now, so I would have to cut it flat. It would move the hole outboard by about a 1/4". This might make the shock lean out at the top by a little, but I have 5" of clearance now, with a 245. I can run a 345 if I want to, even though thats a little bit wide for me.

Second option- an adapter. I have seen an adapter to move the lower shock mount outboard and place it between the holes existing now. I hope that makes sense, but it would swing the lower shock mount out by about 1/2". This would not affect the shock performance, because when I talked to QA1, the tech said anything under 7 degrees of lean is nominal. And it would affect the tire clearance, as the upper mount would remain the same. The picture Im posting is close, but not the exact one Im thinking.

The other shock mount. Obviously it would replace the existing one, but it would move the hole outboard by almost 1/4"

The adapter. But it would be opposite, so the shock bottom would swing outboard. Not this one, but one like it.

 

I got about 1-1/2 hours today to work in the garage. I got the old shock mounts off, and the new ones on. Ill have to go by the hardware store tomorrow before church, and get some different bolts. The ones I had are too long, and the holes are a different size. I have plenty of the bushings for the shocks, so its not a problem there. The shocks will lean outward slightly, but it has a lot more clearance, so Im happy.

I also started looking into the tow hitch receiver. I want it to be strong, but I also want it to be a jack point. Its just too convenient, and getting a jack all the way under the truck to the differential is a pain sometimes. Ill duplicate in metal what I have in cardboard, and then tie in some 1" bars to the side of the frame like it was before. Should be good.


Off with the old, on with the new.

This put the shock in an outward angle, but itll work.

Proposed beefing up on the receiver. I want it to be a jack point also. Itll get some tie in bars too.

Much better clearance now. Ill get bolts tomorrow.

 

Are you going to have to modify the bed floor for fitment?

 

Yes. Thats why I didnt do it to begin with. Now I have to, but the bed floor is rotten to about 2 inches up all the way around, so by raising the floor itll fix that as well. For now itll get a hump made from wood. But I plan on fixing the bed floor eventually, and it will get a raised floor.

 

Started the morning off getting the F100 running. It has been sitting for about 2 months. I had borrowed the coil for Isaacs truck, and the last time I drove it, it ran out of gas. I put the coil in, added a few gallons of gas, hit the gas pedal twice, and it started right up. Holy Cow. I drove it around the block and parked it. It has a ticking lifter, and an exhaust leak. I dont know if Ill fix those problems though. I plan on an engine swap, but I wanted to drive it to the F100 nationals in Pigeon Forge in September. I dont think thats going to happen. We will see.

As far as the Dodge goes, I wanted to re-do the exhaust since I added the notch. I got that tacked together, and roughed in. Ill remove it and weld it all the way. Then we pushed the truck out, and spent a few hours trying to start it up. The fuel pump was bad, so after I figured that out, I got a pump and it started up...and idled after a few adjustments. I couldnt run it long, because I dont have the coolant filled up. But it ran. And it re-started after I shut it off. Im very happy.

Then I put the bed back on. Ill end up needing to raise the bed up to make a few changes underneath, but thats a small issue.

So, the list is something like this now:
Fix the front suspension--bleed the brakes--install the driveshaft--wire the line lock--fix the blinkers--flush the engine coolant and bleed the radiator--make and install the bed blocks and bolt it in--fix the upper a-arms--initial alignment--adjust everything--re-tighten exhaust bolts--fab and install inner fenders--paint the notch.....

There are tons of things to do. Im sure I wont get it all done this summer. I still want to remove the dash and paint it as well. So I have several projects to do this winter that wont keep it from driving, so I might concentrate on making it move under its own power now. Im not sure.

The F100. Not sure if Ill get it running for the nationals in September. Its about an hour and a half drive.

New exhaust humps are deeper. I like the look. It sounds pretty good too.

Bed is on with the notch. You can see the tow hitch receiver also.

Bed is back on. Ill end up lifting it a few more times. So I left the brace in it.

 

I started looking into some of the wiring issues today. Im going to have to buy a few things to finish it, because even when you think you have everything, you never have everything. My wiring list includes-electric fan, turn signals, windshield wipers, blower motor, courtesy lights, aux power plugs and the horn. I started on the horn today, and started troubleshooting it. I went to test it and it blew...in half. It did make a short beep, but it literally blew apart. It was funny, after my heart restarted.

One thing that is bothering me is the neutral safety switch. The truck starts and runs now. But when I wired it, it was for an auto transmission. Now its a manual, so there should be a clutch switch. I figured I would just move the wires from the neutral switch over to the clutch switch and be done. But it works with or without the jumper/switch. Ill have to go over the Ron Francis drawings again. The ignition is wired per the instructions, for a generic ignition switch. But it is supposed to have another wire coming from the ignition to the neutral switch. That wire is missing. Ill have to dig into it. I will post a picture of the switch. The two terminals not being used are labelled "IGN2" and "GND". It starts and runs without either of these.

I also got some wood blocks under the bed to set the height that I want. I noticed the cab is crooked, and with the bed on and leveled, its very noticeable. Ill have to fix that also.

The notch will make me raise the bed floor about 3-1/4 inches, give or take. As I said before, thats okay with me. The bed floor is rotten anyway, so I have to fix it. Im starting to watch videos on raising and replacing the bed floor, so I hope to get at it maybe next year. First it has to run and drive.

I still have to fix the front suspension and install the shocks. I have not adjusted the rear shocks either, so they are as low as they can go and they are in the middle hole on the lower shock mount. I should have almost 3 inches of adjustment both ways. Im going to fix the upper a-arms while Im at it, and replace all the ball joints. They came in the kit with busted boots.

Still lots to do. Its a long weekend too, so I hope to make some good progress.

Ignition switch that came in the truck. Neither of these terminals seem to be needed.

Hit the horn button with power and ground in the right spots, and it blew the horn apart and scared me half to death.

Bought a new gas cap specifically for a 67 d100...and it doesnt fit. Figures.

Im going to raise the entire floor, eventually. We are considering a wood floor too. Im not sure.

Still have to weld the exhaust up, and add some more wood blocks, then I can bolt the bed on.

 

Got the front suspension apart and Im getting ready for the fixes. Ill show the upper shock mount process as I go, but I took some pictures of the upper A-arms and my plan to mod them. The upper mount is simple enough, but itll be a struggle to get in there with the front fenders on. Ill also remove those oil lines so I dont screw those up and have to replace them.

The A-arms will be a little more difficult. I got threaded rod ends and a DOM tube the same inside diameter of the a-arm bars. My plan is to weld the rod ends in the tube, then weld the tube over the a-arms. This should add close to a half inch to the length, and allow the threaded end pieces to go further into the A-arm. It only has maybe 7 or 8 threads in the tube now. I scalloped the tube so It will have more weld length. Ill turn the tube inside, so if I decide to add a support bar, I can weld to it. I also removed the mustang 2 ball joints. The boots were split out of the box it seems, and one or two of the ball joints seem bad. Im just going to get a new set. And I am going to remove one of the bars on the lower A-arms. I might add something back, but I want to be able to install the coil overs without loosening the ball joints. The two bars that are there are for an airbag mount anyway, so I dont need them.

Front suspension is out and ready for modifications.

A-arms are apart and ready for mods as well. Ill get all new ball joints and boots.

This is the way Im going to fix the short upper A-arms. Ill weld those bungs in, then weld the tube on over the A-arm. Itll add about a half inch

 

I hit a major snag today, by accident. Ill get measurements tomorrow, hopefully, and maybe a few pictures. The short story is, it appears the upper A-arm mounts are at different angles. The through bolts for the top and bottom A-arms are at different angles. The instructions say this is for anti-dive. I noticed while fitting the new upper shock mounts that the drivers side didnt fit the same. I used a template, and measured everything. After tacking it in, I set the shock in, and noticed the problem. The upper drivers side A-arm mount is at a different angle than the passenger side. This seems like a major issue to me.

Im going to go back through the instructions, and triple check everything, but this might be major. I have no idea how to fix this.