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No pictures, because nothing really interesting has happened. I got the 3rd brake light mounted, but not wired. I got the driveshaft loop finished, but it needs paint. I filled the factory gas filler hole with a metal plug, but it needs some filler, and primer.
Most of my weekend was spent at work, where the paint shop supervisor is helping me get the dash ready for paint. I look forward to seeing this thing in the color we have picked for the truck, which is Viper GTS blue. The body work will take me a few years to get done Im afraid, but the dash will give us some motivation. And I figured it would be best to just go ahead and paint it before the installation. That will give me the next week or two to get the wiring done before the dash is ready to go in.
I feel like I am close to starting it again. It needs; brakes bled, oil lines made and installed, wiring on lights and the coolant fan (Ill go ahead and do the windshield wipers too) and I have to figure out something with the gas filler neck. Otherwise, its just a few days of installing things to make it drive-able. I hope to make that happen by summer.
How did you chose the color? My Indy is CH/PCH Brilliant Blue Pearl Metallic witch is a slight bit darker than the Viper GTS blue. In 96 it also was used for the viper. Definitely a cool color especially when the sun hit's it!
How did you chose the color? My Indy is CH/PCH Brilliant Blue Pearl Metallic witch is a slight bit darker than the Viper GTS blue. In 96 it also was used for the viper. Definitely a cool color especially when the sun hit's it!
Our paint shop guy had a book from our supplier, and my wife and I went through it. The truck appears to have been blue originally, and Isaac asked me to keep the truck blue, so we went with that color. It looked good, and I hope its the right color. I know there are a few blues available. The one I am hoping we have picked is the one that is close to the metallic blue on Toyota Tundras. I want the darker metallic blue, and it seemed to that one. We will see when its on the dash. We are sure the dash will have to be repainted when the truck is painted, so that the metallic matches (the paint shop supervisor says its best to paint it all at the same time, especially metallic colors). If its wrong we will change it then.
I didnt get to do a lot last week, so I didnt post anything. I spent all day doing maintenance on my mower, and weedeater. Then we did the yard, so not a lot of progress on the truck.
This week I have tried to get some stuff done. I wired the 3rd brake light, and the fuel sender. And I made the park brake bracket, and finished bolting it in. Then I dropped the bed and hood in place, and set it on the ground to get an idea of how it will sit. The pictures are actual ride height on its springs,almost full weight so this is where itll be. It is at the lowest setting, so I can raise it if needed. Ill probably have to to be honest. I like it this low, and it is still higher than my car, but the shocks and springs will settle a little, so it might get lower. Plus the front tires are very close to rubbing on the inner fender well, on the top and inside.
To get the tires on, I swapped the spacers around. I was using 1-1/2" up front, and 2" in the rear to make the factory 20 inch Charger wheels work with the cobbled job that existed on the junk frame, They are 8" wide I think, and have a +24mm offset. These rear wheels are wider, so they are 10" (I cant remember the offset, its been too long), and the fronts are the factory size. To make everything work, I figured I could use the 1-1/2" spacers in the rear, and the 2" up front, which will make the wheel base the same front and back, at 70 inches. I dont like the spacers at all, and I have been looking for a way to eliminate them, but everything is expensive. They make custom offset wheels, that I can get in any width, any backspace (offset) and any lug spacing. They are beautiful also, but they are $1500...each. I dont know if Im prepared or even capable of paying $6k for wheels. So the spacers might have to stay.
Park brake bracket. Ignore the weld on the inside. I put another on the outside because that one sucked. Notice one of the e-brake cables is longer? Ill fix that eventually. The park brake handle. I went with the Lokar in black. It looks good and works well. I just need to adjust everything. Thats about where she will sit. Ill add the spacers in the front. Thats exactly where I like it, with the wheel well line running through the tire. It might have to go up though. Hood and bumper back on. I still have a ton of adjustments to do.
Its not just you. They are tucked in pretty far. They will come out when I install the 2" spacers. Its the wheels. The positive offset, which is what most newer cars use, really puts the wheels inboard. I need a negative offset to fix it.
I have been avoiding this part for awhile. I decided to do the suspension adjustments. Im glad they are done, but man what a pain. I fixed the caster and tow in issues, and added the spacers in the front. I also raised the front suspension about an inch I think. Its still plenty low, but maybe ill be able to turn it now.
I think the spacers are just too much in the front. The wheelbase matches at 74-1/2" front and back with the wheels on, but the front wheels look like they might rub the outer fender now. Im not going to change anything right now though. Im going to finish it, and drive it and see. A conversation with a friend the other day has me a little worried. Basically, the distance from the center of the lower ball joint to the center of the tire is about 6-1/2". This will cause the tire to "swipe" in a large arc, whereas its better if it pivots as close to the center line of the tire as possible. I know the modern cars set as much suspension inside the tire as possible, and it wasnt an issue in the early days. Plus this is still a Mustang 2 suspension with a spindle instead of a hub, so its essentially from the 70s. But a hitting a pothole or a bump with just one tire might make it act funny, Im just not sure. Ill drive it and see. I expect a heavy steering wheel when going slow, because I have a manual rack. The plan was to upgrade to power steering later anyway.
Either way, here are the pictures.
I wont be able to work on it much over the next two weeks. I have a very complicated delivery to make at work, and its going to take a bunch of time to get it all right and worked out. Quite a difference from the other pictures. Everything is set where it should be now. I raised it up as well while I was under it. Ill raise the rear end a little too. Looking a little more normal now. The wheels are out too far, so Ill go in maybe an inch both sides, Im not sure.
I do like the look a lot better the way it sits now, but yeah, I think you are right, steering at low speeds is gonna suck with that manual rack, and the major arc the tires are going to be going thru.
The tops of the tires look awfully close to the fenders as well. I would be tempted to set it up on stands, such that the suspension is still supporting the weight of the truck, at standard ride height, and turn the wheels lock to lock, and see if it's gonna hit. My guess is, it will, and it most certainly will if the suspension is compressed at all in a turn....... Maybe go with slightly thinner spacers??
