Hey guys any transmission experts here? So I'm not to familiar with transmissions at all. I took the inspection cover off for the flexplate just out of curiosity I wanted to see how it looks. My 46rh is mated to a 12 valve Cummins are these flexplates prone to failure because of performance mods that most people do to the Cummins? Everything looks good behind the cover at least as far I can tell I rotated the engine then looked and rotated it and looked and so on. I took a picture too so I'll see if I can get it to attach.

 

 

46RH never came behind a diesel, likely a 47. They are fairly stout, and I don't think the flexplate is the weakest link.

 

Yea it's an a518/46rh non lockup. the a618/47rh didnt come out until 95 and was the first lockup tc transmission behind the 5.9 Cummins. The a518/46rh only had lockup behind the gassers. I'm familiar with their applications, but not the internals.

 

Given that the gas engines don't seem to have much trouble blowing them up, the diesel is likely quite capable of making extremely short work of one.....

Wonder how much work it would be to install a 47RH.....

 

Yea I would like to get it rebuilt, but brokey broke lol. Winter is coming up too so will be very limited to doing anything for my trucks. Trying to get everything done before it gets here, but limited on funds. A lot of guys use 47rh internals for the 46rh because they're 90% compatible. One just has a lockup TC of course I'm not very familiar with the internals other than I know the flexplate on the 46rh sucks and just about all the TCs suck.

 

I had 200K on mine when I sold it. Of course, that was behind a 5.9 gas..... It can last, if you take care of it, and don't abuse it too badly. Some nice upgrades available as well, but, spendy....... I wouldn't think it would be too hard to rig something for TCC...... maybe the third gear pressure test port, with a pressure switch.... Or something similar.

 

Yea I'm trying to take care of it I always let it sit in neutral for a minute or so before I move the truck. I put an extra deep pan on it too which after doing the modifications because the filter needed a spacer it took about 12 quarts so that's a lot of additional cooling. Yea I'm sure it's not difficult I bypassed the pcm on this truck and also put Overdrive on a toggle switch as well while I was doing that eventually will have to get around to the expensive stuff which I'm not looking forward to, but the truck only has 127,000 miles. Have just been working on it more than driving it trying to get everything right. Next task is 9/16 studs, but just gonna put them on the front for now because I don't want to take the drums apart yet. On the front end of these D series trucks(2wd) the knurl/bore for the lug studs to drive into the hub is different from the rear hubs so I got 5/8 studs from a D350 because they have the same knurl on the front end just much larger thread pitch. All D/W150 and D/W250s have 1/2" studs from the factory so getting the 5/8 studs machined down to 9/16" to make better fitment with the 2nd gen steelies I put on as 2nd gens have 9/16 studs. I just want bigger studs to begin with these 1/2" studs were a bad decision with a diesel engine on the front end and the D350 studs are longer too which is nice. The good part is that the studs are still available from dorman for the rear so don't have to get them machined as they come in 9/16.

 

There's a way to fit the unified f250 rotors with long 9/16" studs already. I believe you have to fashion a thin spacer from a big washer or something. It may be more cost effective overall if your rotor or hub need replacing anyway.

 

I did hear something about that, but I decided to go this way as I have already replaced the rotors and everything else on the front end. I already dropped the studs off at the machine shop too hopefully won't be to expensive and I have the 9/16 studs for the rear already from Dorman.