Any interest here in better mpg mods?
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
Intake tube studies analyzed...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...uedwH3TOE8tHQB
If I understand it correctly, there is more bottom end torque made from a longer straight pipe intake tube attached to the throttle body... pg 7 in the PDF linked above
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...uedwH3TOE8tHQB
If I understand it correctly, there is more bottom end torque made from a longer straight pipe intake tube attached to the throttle body... pg 7 in the PDF linked above
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
1st good tank with the jeep tcm... 16.99x mpg. This is with new crank, cam & o2 sensors, previous "good" tank before brake issue was a 16.6x mpg
For me to keep it straight...
MAP only tank was 17.0 (?)
Crank, Cam & O2 was 16.6x
JTCM was 16.99. <- this also supports my belief that the bottom end is not strong enough to leverage this...
Still better than the 14.3~14.4 when I started...
HPT module has shipped
For me to keep it straight...
MAP only tank was 17.0 (?)
Crank, Cam & O2 was 16.6x
JTCM was 16.99. <- this also supports my belief that the bottom end is not strong enough to leverage this...
Still better than the 14.3~14.4 when I started...
HPT module has shipped
Last edited by steve05ram360; Dec 10, 2021 at 07:58 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
Experimenting...
removed air deflector off of RS of the radiator, swapped in a piece of HDPE plastic long enough to block water intrusion into the airbox. Used 2 pieces, 2nd piece is just held in with the screw and wedged between the air box and the upper piece. Removed the snorkle to the air box.
1st observation, right off the bat, trans is downshifting a lot more (which met my expectation) since the opening to the air box is no longer restricted. What this did on the Ram (diesel) was it shifted the torque peak some up the rpm range and part throttle torque dropped in the cruising zone. I see this as well on the dak setup I just did. So, I blocked off some of the flow into the airbox and brought the part throttle torque down in rpms some and now no more excessive downshifting.
I did a few things Friday...
1) swapped in Royal Purple 5w-30 oil as a final oil swap (will be running this at 5k OCIs), expect no change on mpg's
2) started the fuel rail wrap using exhaust wrap that I had on hand. I verified using a thermal cam and a heat gun that as it sits in the package, it will block all heat from heat soaking the metal behind it. I did this in a stainless steel sink to convince myself I was good to go. expect more bottom-mid range torque when complete
3) air box area mods. expect it to shift the part throttle torque up/down the rpm range in alignment with the amount of flow into the box.
Started researching more on the intake manifolds, airflow velocities thru the intake manifold, throttle bodies etc and have concluded the intake that is on there is the right one to have, the TB may be swapped out for a slightly smaller one (the 2000 MY has a smaller one but I read it has different sensors so a challenge there to get around that)
removed air deflector off of RS of the radiator, swapped in a piece of HDPE plastic long enough to block water intrusion into the airbox. Used 2 pieces, 2nd piece is just held in with the screw and wedged between the air box and the upper piece. Removed the snorkle to the air box.
1st observation, right off the bat, trans is downshifting a lot more (which met my expectation) since the opening to the air box is no longer restricted. What this did on the Ram (diesel) was it shifted the torque peak some up the rpm range and part throttle torque dropped in the cruising zone. I see this as well on the dak setup I just did. So, I blocked off some of the flow into the airbox and brought the part throttle torque down in rpms some and now no more excessive downshifting.
I did a few things Friday...
1) swapped in Royal Purple 5w-30 oil as a final oil swap (will be running this at 5k OCIs), expect no change on mpg's
2) started the fuel rail wrap using exhaust wrap that I had on hand. I verified using a thermal cam and a heat gun that as it sits in the package, it will block all heat from heat soaking the metal behind it. I did this in a stainless steel sink to convince myself I was good to go. expect more bottom-mid range torque when complete
3) air box area mods. expect it to shift the part throttle torque up/down the rpm range in alignment with the amount of flow into the box.
Started researching more on the intake manifolds, airflow velocities thru the intake manifold, throttle bodies etc and have concluded the intake that is on there is the right one to have, the TB may be swapped out for a slightly smaller one (the 2000 MY has a smaller one but I read it has different sensors so a challenge there to get around that)
Since air boxes are so cheap at the yard, going to grab one and modify it to flow the same thru holes I drill and mount up the 3" electric cut-out so I can control it in the cab. This is the 1st step before taking the leap to the vacuum actuated setup. The goal there is to get the best of both worlds with the valve closed under higher vacuum conditions and open up under higher loads. Pretty sure I can get that dialed in.
Also, the chat with Airaid (apparently owned by K&N now) is going to get me a different intake tube shipped to me. Not sue when that will show up but the guy I was chatting with gave me an order number so I guess it will show up in a week or so.
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
agreed... i am hoping they ship the right tube... would suck to get the same one that i have.
disappointed with the jtcm results i hooked up a scanner and took a look at intake vacuum, most of the time it is really low at 1500-1600 rpms @60-63 mph, 2-3" which is not good for mpgs. started driving with od off out on the hiway, rpms are up around 2500 @ 60-63 mph, vacuum is up around 8". not sure i have the patients to wait for 200 miles from the work commute lol.
disappointed with the jtcm results i hooked up a scanner and took a look at intake vacuum, most of the time it is really low at 1500-1600 rpms @60-63 mph, 2-3" which is not good for mpgs. started driving with od off out on the hiway, rpms are up around 2500 @ 60-63 mph, vacuum is up around 8". not sure i have the patients to wait for 200 miles from the work commute lol.
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
Going to leave the JTCM in there for now... got a 2nd set of gauges in the Dak now that I can watch daily. Took it for a long spin w/o the air box tape, took notes on how the vacuum was in 5th & 3rd @ 60~65 mph. I see what the problem was, on any hill with the tape covering the air box opening it was dropping down too low because of the lack of torque down there. Now the gauges I have in there the calculated torque is now on the gauge display so I can watch it along with the MAP. So knowing what I know now, will approach the drive to work next week differently and see how it goes.
Professional
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 194
Likes: 52
Okay, i was all ready wondering, because i have very different vacuum read outs on mine at the same rpm's.
I don't know the behaviors on yours with the JTCM, but mine works fine, there's a little lag with 1/4 throttle when increasing speed from about 30 to 40mph, but soon as you give it some more throttle like 3/4 it pulls right through.
But like said before, mine is a lighter weight and maybe better conditions, like flat roads and barometric pressure.
Looking forward when you have the Airaid mounted, and see if the torque comes up a bit with lower rpm's.
I don't know the behaviors on yours with the JTCM, but mine works fine, there's a little lag with 1/4 throttle when increasing speed from about 30 to 40mph, but soon as you give it some more throttle like 3/4 it pulls right through.
But like said before, mine is a lighter weight and maybe better conditions, like flat roads and barometric pressure.
Looking forward when you have the Airaid mounted, and see if the torque comes up a bit with lower rpm's.
Thread Starter
|
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 309
yeah i can point to only 1 area on the commute that is flat (hiway) and its its maybe a mile (34 mi drive). everything on the hiway is on a slope beyond that mile. before i do anything else i need to start logging and analyzing the data. hpt upgraded hardware should be in hand wed/thur and should be able to get going on it. now with the gauges in there i will adjust the drive style based on manifold vacuum.
what map data numbers are seeing?
what map data numbers are seeing?