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i would swap those 2 sensors... then get some exhaust wrap and wrap the fuel rail & crossover tube... (ding... i forgot about the feed line to the rail)h pull the snorkle on the air box and tape over 1/3 of it.
then i i g some of that insulating tape i i linked and cover the bottom of the air hat. (ding... had not thought of that) with the goal to stabilize under hood operating temps for fuel and air.
$25ish ea for 2 sensors, $25 for exhaust wrap, $15 for tape. i i would bet your getting excessive hot air into the intake coupled with heat soaked fuel which is causing pinging you cant cant and your timing is getting pulled...
sorry for typos, for some reason this forum feels the need to auto correct somehow and some stuff ends up looking like gibberish .. i am giving up on keeping it fixed lol
Thx. I only saw the typos after you mentioned them. LOL.
I've kept these two items in the truck for years.... thought the sensor was for the crankshaft but when I looked up the camshaft sensors (thanks to you), they looked pretty similar. Can you tell which one this is? Got em both from the junkyard.
PS: When I held the flat part of a knife to the magnet tip, it wasn't strong enough to support it's own weight.
Last edited by Dodgevity; Dec 12, 2021 at 05:44 PM.
Looks you gonna drive a Chevy in the future......good luck
We get a subsidy of $ 3.000,= on a new car...... at least some of us.
For 2021 the application for subsidy was opened on 01-03-2021 and was all forgiven at 01-06-2021......so this means whoever comes first has something, the rest nada.
Looks like 2022 will be the same, so you have to buy you're car know and let it register on 01-02-2022, fill in the form and if you be lucky you get a $ 3.000,= refund.....
Haven't really seen any EV offerings from GM that I like. The only one that would qualify for the the $12500 credit (if it gets passed) is Ford. They have union labor and have not reached the quota of vehicles. The electric F150 looks interesting but won't fit in my garage (another reason why I keep the Dak).
I've kept these two items in the truck for years.... thought the sensor was for the crankshaft but when I looked up the camshaft sensors (thanks to you), they looked pretty similar. Can you tell which one this is?
You're right, you've got a Crankshaft Positioning Sensor and a Coil with a glove
On the Camshaft sensor the magnet sits deeper in the housing.
Looks we have the same problem with the Full Size Trucks , other than that it's a nice convenient size and big enough for me.
Yeah, my house was built in the 70's. Trucks weren't big as they are now.
Originally Posted by V8Cowboy
You're right, you've got a Crankshaft Positioning Sensor and a Coil with a glove
On the Camshaft sensor the magnet sits deeper in the housing.
Good to know. I kept it in a glove to keep the dirt out. I priced Mopar sensors and the crank is pretty pricey... around $80. The camshaft sensor is around $40. Don't think I'd go aftermarket with these. The junkyard one in my pic is probably aftermarket. Kept it around for emergency.
Thx. I only saw the typos after you mentioned them. LOL.
I've kept these two items in the truck for years.... thought the sensor was for the crankshaft but when I looked up the camshaft sensors (thanks to you), they looked pretty similar. Can you tell which one this is? Got em both from the junkyard.
PS: When I held the flat part of a knife to the magnet tip, it wasn't strong enough to support it's own weight.
they are so cheap, just buy new ones .. i bought standard motor products sensors and they seem ok, no ce light last time i looked.
Seen too many people have issues with aftermarket. These are two sensors I def would stick to Mopar.
Yeah I agree... I had the bad experience with the NTK crank/cam sensor (same for both positions) on the Ram & went with Cummins... which was actually cheaper by a few bucks. OEM was not an option at the time I did the order so I researched SMP and decided to give them a shot. So far no problem.
Way back in the time of yore, my dad used to talk about his drag racing days. Won a lot of trophies at it. Anyway, one of the things he'd talk about is how some drivers would raise the back of their hood by an inch to relieve underhood pressure. It was good for a few MPH and a few tenths in the quarter.
Might help with mileage, but I'd only run a test with the back raised. If it works I'd figure out a different way to relieve pressure, one that didn't involve removing the hooks that keep the hood from shearing into the passenger compartment during an accident.
Way back in the time of yore, my dad used to talk about his drag racing days. Won a lot of trophies at it. Anyway, one of the things he'd talk about is how some drivers would raise the back of their hood by an inch to relieve underhood pressure. It was good for a few MPH and a few tenths in the quarter.
Might help with mileage, but I'd only run a test with the back raised. If it works I'd figure out a different way to relieve pressure, one that didn't involve removing the hooks that keep the hood from shearing into the passenger compartment during an accident.
Yup, already have done something similar to that on the Dak, removed the hood seal off the cowl, fuel vapors coming in thru the cowl vent encouraged me to put it back on. The constant CE light for EVAP is a reminder to get that fixed.
On the Ram back in 2018 I got into a bet with a co-worker on whether or not I could get 5 tanks to average 23.0 mpg or better. One of the things I dove into was the aero aspect of it. After the bet was won I tried a simple grill block from behind the grill, approx 1/3 of the opening and placed at the top. The intent was to get the airflow over the hood more which was supposed to improve aero drag. What it did was create down force on the hood, it was just enough to barely feel and was perceived as a placebo effect... until I had high winds on the bridge. Coming across the bridge the front of the truck was so planted, noticeably improved front end stability. Then fast forward to last summer 2021, dove back into aero again and found the vertical bed seals showed a significant drop in drag if shortened to the body line (pic posted earlier in thread). I had the same effect as the full seal plus the tape closing off the rear bumper (tape removed after the bet).
Further motivated I dove into the horizontal bed seal and learned what that would do... With the full seal it changed the airflow/bubble that sits on top of the tonneau cover and created more down force. Truck was really planted at one point but, mpg suffered. I experimented with a full seal, partial seal in the middle and partial seal on the bed corners, all of which increased stability and drag. Decided to strip it all off and do before and after test... man I sure miss that down force front & back, but I like the mpg change it gave (I forget what it was). Ended up settling for the lower air dam + partial vertical bed seals... its been that way ever since.
I looked at just about everything I could think of... including venting the wheel wells... the pic below was just after getting them installed, heavy rain lots of water on the road. Look at the amount of water under the front of the tire and then look at how much spray is coming off the top of the wheel well... it made a difference.
