Any interest here in better mpg mods?
Brakes fixed... problem was a pad failed, new pads in, did not swap rotors since I am going to an '03 setup. And... brakes are dragging so I expect mpg's do drop. sigh... well at least I can park the ram again.
I have decided to go to the newer setup, will get the steering knuckles and all new parts after that. Looking on rockauto.com it appears that the bearings I just bought should swap over. Is there any gotcha's I need to be aware of?
I have decided to go to the newer setup, will get the steering knuckles and all new parts after that. Looking on rockauto.com it appears that the bearings I just bought should swap over. Is there any gotcha's I need to be aware of?
[QUOTE=steve05ram360;Is there any gotcha's I need to be aware of?[/QUOTE]
Only things you should check after dismanteling or order new parts are :
The threads on the brake lines, but should be the same.
The taper sides of the baljoints, but they should be the same, same on the tie rod side.
I know you will order those all new anyway, at least it's recommended, get it all done and you have a complete new front end.
You have to have at least the 16" rims for the upgrade, but you do, so no problem on this end.
And last and most important, on the new spindle the brake caliper bracket will mount a little bit more to the outside, and it's most likely you're brake caliper is grinding inside the rim.
You have to grind a little of the caliper as i understand, some have no problems others have to grind it down a bit.
I have no experience on it just yet, but i should take a closer look at the bracket and see if i could make a shim plate to get it mounted completely a bit more to the inside, instead of grinding off some material to clear the rim.
Good luck and i am looking forward to here you're results and improvement on the brake performance.
Only things you should check after dismanteling or order new parts are :
The threads on the brake lines, but should be the same.
The taper sides of the baljoints, but they should be the same, same on the tie rod side.
I know you will order those all new anyway, at least it's recommended, get it all done and you have a complete new front end.
You have to have at least the 16" rims for the upgrade, but you do, so no problem on this end.
And last and most important, on the new spindle the brake caliper bracket will mount a little bit more to the outside, and it's most likely you're brake caliper is grinding inside the rim.
You have to grind a little of the caliper as i understand, some have no problems others have to grind it down a bit.
I have no experience on it just yet, but i should take a closer look at the bracket and see if i could make a shim plate to get it mounted completely a bit more to the inside, instead of grinding off some material to clear the rim.
Good luck and i am looking forward to here you're results and improvement on the brake performance.
Jack it up, take off the wheel/tire, pump the brakes a couple times to get the caliper to 'set', then, crack open the bleeder. If the caliper releases nicely, then the soft line is bad. Not the caliper.
When I first got it in the garage and in the air, the caliper released over time, 1x. Now the caliper never releases...
I think I'm going to go get a Pick & Pull caliper and go that route since they are cheap and there are a few in the yard. I need the truck up and going the upgraded brake route requires time I dont really have atm...
I think I'm going to go get a Pick & Pull caliper and go that route since they are cheap and there are a few in the yard. I need the truck up and going the upgraded brake route requires time I dont really have atm...
I heard back from Airaid on the intake tube install problem... they mention that I may not have had the clamp oriented correctly which will cause the coupler to not install. Going to check this tonight.
Last edited by steve05ram360; Dec 8, 2021 at 11:20 AM.











