What Did You Do To Your 2ND GEN RAM Today?
Pissed off!
Yesterday I got the new rear lift springs installed and other new rear suspension parts.............only to find out I am sitting 1.5 lower in the back than the front WTF these are supposed to be 6" lift springs without blocks. There are no blocks needed in there 7" kit with the use of these springs. If these are indeed the wrong springs some H*** is going to hit the fan today. Off to call Skyjacker to see what's going on. Truck looks stupid nose high.
Edit: Called SJ the 6" leaf springs are to be used in conjunction with the factory 3" blocks when doing the 7" lift install, so that puts the 2" rake back it the truck 9" lift in the back and 7" in the front not going to happen. So I just ordered 2" blocks for it. I did not want any blocks in the back and yet.........
Yesterday I got the new rear lift springs installed and other new rear suspension parts.............only to find out I am sitting 1.5 lower in the back than the front WTF these are supposed to be 6" lift springs without blocks. There are no blocks needed in there 7" kit with the use of these springs. If these are indeed the wrong springs some H*** is going to hit the fan today. Off to call Skyjacker to see what's going on. Truck looks stupid nose high.
Edit: Called SJ the 6" leaf springs are to be used in conjunction with the factory 3" blocks when doing the 7" lift install, so that puts the 2" rake back it the truck 9" lift in the back and 7" in the front not going to happen. So I just ordered 2" blocks for it. I did not want any blocks in the back and yet.........
Pinch (band) clamps are superior to the screw/cam style clamps as they (band) clamps exert the correct amount of pressure on the plastic parts of the radiator so as not to break them.
'Murricans, in their "infinite superiority", love to replace band clamps with their so-called SUPERIOR screw type clamps and torque them so tight that cracks or severe stress is imposed on the plastic parts which -- YEP, lead to leaks and the eventual replacement of parts that were otherwise not damaged.
Proper diagnosis, kid. That's the name of the game.
'Murricans, in their "infinite superiority", love to replace band clamps with their so-called SUPERIOR screw type clamps and torque them so tight that cracks or severe stress is imposed on the plastic parts which -- YEP, lead to leaks and the eventual replacement of parts that were otherwise not damaged.
Proper diagnosis, kid. That's the name of the game.
2. the heater core is not plastic. This was a heater hose, not a radiator hose.
3. not only was the band clamp allowing a leak, but it is also a big f'ing PITA to get on and off because there is no room to get pliers in there to get the effer on/off. so trying to pinch it and slide it at the same time in an area that takes finesse just to get pliers into, takes quite a while to accomplish...
the other hose clamp not only fixed the leak, but it was 10x easier to get on there.
much easier to fit a nut driver on there than it is a pair of pliers in a very tight spot to get to.
Those band clamps are the biggest paint in the gunbarrel ever. They work great in open, easy to access spaces, but I've never seen one on an automobile that couldn't have been sufficiently replaced by a hose clamp
EXACTLY! There's a reason I was trained to always replace band clamps with screw clamps on small engines, we had too many gas leaks and fires because of the dumb band clamps losing tension over many years of use.