I think it is related to the pressure you are using.

Are you using a conventional gun, or HVLP?

 

HVLP at 28 psi. I may have to try spraying the panels I cut out and play with adjustmenst on gun some more to see if I can get it corrected. I don't want to waste any of the expensive base. But the 2K is much thicker so I don't know how to adjust for paint thickness and consistency.

I have gained a whole new respect for those that do this work for a living! I think I am better at my day job! ...lol...

 

Have a look here. I think this should apply to HVLP as well.

 

That helps. Think I need to get a thinggy to measure viscosity. Although mixing per instructions, it may be off on viscosity and I can see whrere that would have some effect. I'll recheck the nozzle size with specs also. Thanks!

 

I had found another post about how to 'tune' your HVLP gun.... but, I am unable to come up with it again.... but basically, it was point the thing at a 'sample' sheet, and give a quick squirt, and look at your pattern..... also, adjust the width of the fan FIRST, then, when you have your pattern the way you want it, DON'T mess with it any more.

 

There is no way to avoid orange peel. Itll happen more with thicker paint, like primer. If youre using base coat, clear coat, when ready to paint, just spray the base till you have the coverage, then clear after the base has flashed off. There WILL be orange peel in the clear. Spray 3-4 good coats of clear. After the clear has FULLY cured, wet sand with 2000 grit until most orange peel is gone. Then use 3000 grit to finish it. Use a sanding sponge. Then buff. And be careful of the body lines, you can sand through easily and burn through with the buffer even easier.

 

I did not notice the orange peel with the urethane primer that I spraye on first, but it was pretty thin. Of course the 2K was much thicker. Should I lay 2 coats of base before clear? Since the base is a metallic black, it seems I remember reading somewhere that I cannot sand it without ruinging it. Is that correct?

Here it is with the hood sanded to remove orange peel. Dry sanded with 500 grit using DA sander. Just finished wet saning it with 600 grit after photo was taken. Need to do roof now and then try to wash this evening and look for any places I may have missed or need a little more sanding.

 

Yeah, can't sand metalflake paint......

I would shoot three good coats of color, and let it cure for a day at least, than spray the clear. Put on a couple coats of clear, and do your sanding/buffing on the clear.

 

Dont let the color sit for a day before clear. There is a time "window" for applying thc clear. If it is out of that window, youll need to sand the color and spray another coat before clear. Check with the manufacture of the paint you have to find out what the window is. Personnaly, I would do 3 coats base, make sure you have coverage, allow to flash for 1-2 hours, then clear. Also, since its metallic, keep the last coat of color as even as possible to keep uniform color. If you run the color, stop, let dry, wet sand it out with 2000 grit, recoat entire truck (for uniform color), and once covered, clear.

 

Also, on final sanding of primer use a guide coat. Mist black spray paint over ot and wet sand till all gone. That will make it easier to see the orange peel is gone and can also enhance any flaws in body work before the color is applied. That way you can fix it before its too late.

Oh, and if the clear is applied after the "window", it will not be obvious imediately, later on when the clear is peeling cuz of poor adhesion, youll know.