IIRC (and I may not) the 1-2 and 2-3 shift are (at least in part) controlled by the TV cable and OD is done via PCM.

 

look at mopar performance PCM or B&G shift points are changed with in the PCM .... this is why i took out my Mopar performace PCM cause i already have a shift kit plus a 2000 rpm stall convertor , and boy she pulls between 2-3 grand...

TQ lock unlock controlled by the TPS which in return the PCM controlles it
94-95 OBD I trans is a RH hydrolic
96-02 OBD II trans is a RE electronic

 

They are so reluctant to ever explain to me what exactly they even put into my unit that even I don't know what's heavyduty about it. Everytime I've asked them about it, they always give me vague answers. "premium parts", and performance converter, blah blah blah. It's extremely frustrating, you guys can finally get a clue with what I've been dealing with since February. Bottom line is if they don't have it fixed by this week, I'm hiring a lawyer. I want to know what you guys think of this.. If it isn't fixed, should I have the lawyer request the unit to be removed and have a stock transmission installed? This way there is no more messing around? And I should get about $1100 back that I could put towards the rest of my loan. I would keep the transmission cooler and deep dish pan. I'm just throwing this idea out there, what do you guys think. Basically what I'm asking is what do you think I should request the lawyer to do if they don't fix my transmission by the end of the week??

 

If you go the lawyer route ask for 100% refund.

 

I tend to say I'd go for the 100% refund too but I'm not exactly sure what can be done here. Have you talked to a lawyer? I think your best bet may be to talk with one and see what his/her opinion on the matter is and if they think they will get anywhere with it.

 

As in get my money back and have a different shop install a unit? Or buy one over the internet? So try to totally get disconnected from them?

 

If they don't satisfy you, which they 99.9% probably won't...

Talk to the lawyer, and see about getting 100% refund back and go somewhere else, preferably APS or Dr. Evil, or with a shop you KNOW is good, or heard about from a close friend/relative.

Preferably out of state, as Maine seems to have a lot of bad auto mechanics.

They've caused you so much grief and so many problems with the truck, the least they owe you is a refund. Honestly, if it was possible, I'd get even more out of them, they've caused you so much grief and treated you like crap. You even spent money on the new, smaller tires to help out the tranny (or so you can say), and it didn't help either. So maybe you can get the cost of that out of it too.

Don't go for too much, otherwise you won't get anything. But ask the lawyer whats possible. I'll ask my little brother about it when I get a chance, he's gone through a year of pre-law at his college now, he might know something.

 

The reason I went with APS is I have buddies that have tried several transmission places around here and haven't had any luck with any of them. I'm sure there are a few good places somewhere but I don't know of any and they seem hard to find. I've only heard of one place I've heard 2 people tell me good things about but that's all I've heard about it. The rest I've heard mostly bad things about. Seems to be very hard to find a good transmission shop.

 

Wow I'm glad I asked you guys what you thought. I really wasn't even thinking about the idea of completely disassociating myself with them. And you are right, it's been a ton of grief. They ARE the reason why my truck sits at stock height and 285 tires. He told me it was my oversized tires messing with it, and that if I wanted a stock ride to go and buy a stock vehicle. So I took that lift off and spent over $1200 getting that truck taken back to stock. If they don't fix it, I will for sure ask the lawyer if I can get a full refund. I will look deeply into buying an APS transmission. If not that, I will do some heavy research where to bring the truck for a new transmission. If I got a full refund I would probably get back around $3,000 because the cooler, pan, and pinion/transfer leaks were about $1100. Interesting decisions to make. Sighhh, stressfull too. In a way I want it to not function when I get it back so I can just stop dealing with them, but in another way I want it fixed, so I don't have to keep waiting to get my truck back on the road.

 

Oh, and I forgot...

Sit in there, and WAIT for that build sheet. I cannot stress that enough. The next time you go in, calmly let him know you will not leave without one.

That way, worst case scenario, you can prove that what they told you you were getting is not what you got, and/or you can have a third party open it up, and figure out if they lied on that build sheet to you.