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MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)

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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #171  
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MonteC
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Originally Posted by yakkier
K i will check out the kit. But to answer your question its coming from under the truck, i cant pin point where it is i even put it in reverse with the parking brake on and climbed under it while it was running and let her give it some gas.

But i still cant figure out where it's coming from.
Gotta be the exhaust or something.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 08:54 AM
  #172  
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MonteC
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Originally Posted by J415
Hey MonteC, after reviewing the FSM, I think I may have installed the OD sprag upside down. I think that may have thrown off my measurements. I'll take it apart again tomorrow after church and let you know if my problem still persists. Hopefully thats the problem.
always check sprag rotation before installation. Transmissions do funny things when you put the sprags in backwards. Ask me how i know.

Also make sure you are taking your measurements without the top bearing installed on the o/d unit.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #173  
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MonteC
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Originally Posted by Trey318
Hey MonteC.

My transmission has been giving me quite the trouble lately. It seems every 1000 or so miles, my transmission wants to act up. The governor pressure sensor and solenoid seem to be getting gunked up. I'll drop the pan, replace the filter, clean the sensor and solenoid, replace the fluid and then all is fine for the next 1000 miles or so. This is becoming an expensive cycle, especially after having replaced the pair twice before. The transmission was rebuilt less than 15k ago under authority of the previous owner, but knowing the quality of the shop he took it to, I'm sure it wasn't the best of job. Any ideas what may be causing this?

I'm just trying to get through the first half of May when school lets out, so I can rebuild it myself. I have a mild 408 that's going to be built over the summer, so I'm wondering what type of parts I should be looking for in the rebuild. Any sort of list would be fantastic.

Anywho, thanks.
Sounds like a bad torque converter. The converter will make very fine metal sludge that the governor solenoid loves to pick up.

Also i posted a list for member on here, his name was dave, but i forgot his screen name. It wasnt too long ago, might even be in this thread.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #174  
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Here is that list, i had copied it to word so I would have it to do mine.


Dave, this is what i reccommend. Plug these numbers into WITTRANS's website.

22002E
12010J OR 12010C depending on year of your truck
B22022A
22034A
22046C
36066 replace other bushings as needed.
22119EHP
22139E
22582E
22584C
S22741NCK
D12415B OR C depending on year
U12927
A12432BK
A22912 use the seal that comes in the overhaul kit, the seal that superior supplies does not install very well.
S22916-2

Some common hard parts that you may or may not need, depending on what you find on tear down. This is just a short list because hard part damage veries from unit to unit, you might get lucky and not have any damage.
D22634C
D12220
A22654A
A12650

Also for the extra capacity drums you will need to do some measuring for clutch clearances and order what you need separetly from WIT, they have listings for the different thickness pressure plates. Also if you plan on upgrading the intermediate apply lever 4.2 will do just fine. Put a deep pan on it (dont forget the filter adapter), big cooler with fan if possible. Talk with precision about their RV converters with the billet back.

That should do you nicely.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by MonteC
Sounds like a bad torque converter. The converter will make very fine metal sludge that the governor solenoid loves to pick up.

Also i posted a list for member on here, his name was dave, but i forgot his screen name. It wasnt too long ago, might even be in this thread.
Never would have thought of the torque converter being the culprit. Thanks.

Originally Posted by ghost4321
Here is that list, i had copied it to word so I would have it to do mine.


Dave, this is what i reccommend. Plug these numbers into WITTRANS's website.

22002E
12010J OR 12010C depending on year of your truck
B22022A
22034A
22046C
36066 replace other bushings as needed.
22119EHP
22139E
22582E
22584C
S22741NCK
D12415B OR C depending on year
U12927
A12432BK
A22912 use the seal that comes in the overhaul kit, the seal that superior supplies does not install very well.
S22916-2

Some common hard parts that you may or may not need, depending on what you find on tear down. This is just a short list because hard part damage veries from unit to unit, you might get lucky and not have any damage.
D22634C
D12220
A22654A
A12650

Also for the extra capacity drums you will need to do some measuring for clutch clearances and order what you need separetly from WIT, they have listings for the different thickness pressure plates. Also if you plan on upgrading the intermediate apply lever 4.2 will do just fine. Put a deep pan on it (dont forget the filter adapter), big cooler with fan if possible. Talk with precision about their RV converters with the billet back.

That should do you nicely.
Also thanks for reposting that for me. Saved me some searching

One more question, MonteC. Is it normal for my trans to want to rev more in 1st gear to the point it hits the rev limiter at WOT, rev little to almost none in 2nd gear, then do most of the accelerating in 3rd before it shifts into OD? Even at half to 3/4 throttle it likes to do this a lot. It seems a little inefficient.

Thanks again.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 12:10 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by MonteC
either the 1-2 band is not adjusted properly or the direct clutches are going south. I would start with changing fluid filter and doing a band adjustment.
Did a fluid and filter change. didnt help.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by MonteC
always check sprag rotation before installation. Transmissions do funny things when you put the sprags in backwards. Ask me how i know.
Also make sure you are taking your measurements without the top bearing installed on the o/d unit.
So I just disassembled my OD unit and sure enough, the sprag was up side down. Fixed that, I also noticed that the steel plates that I have in there are .70 thick (1st design) and the pressure plate that I have in there is a .85 thick (second design) plate. The previous steels that were in there (.55 thick) look almost new (got the OD unit from the bone yard) and still have the part # inked on there. Is it safe to use 9 steels and 8 frictions as it shows to do for the A618? I hope I'm being clear. Sometimes the question sounds good in my head, but when it's verbalized, it's a different story.

Now my thrust spacer measurement is 1.840 which fall in spec. Sounds good right?
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by mxztnt_6
Did a fluid and filter change. didnt help.
How did the fluid look? Any crap in the pan? What did you adjust the bands to? I never said just changing the fluid would help. Why do people think that changing the fluid will magically fix the transmission. I wanted you to change the fluid to get an idea of what is going on inside the unit.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #179  
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MonteC
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Originally Posted by J415
So I just disassembled my OD unit and sure enough, the sprag was up side down. Fixed that, I also noticed that the steel plates that I have in there are .70 thick (1st design) and the pressure plate that I have in there is a .85 thick (second design) plate. The previous steels that were in there (.55 thick) look almost new (got the OD unit from the bone yard) and still have the part # inked on there. Is it safe to use 9 steels and 8 frictions as it shows to do for the A618? I hope I'm being clear. Sometimes the question sounds good in my head, but when it's verbalized, it's a different story.

Now my thrust spacer measurement is 1.840 which fall in spec. Sounds good right?
All of those o/d units on all of the re's are the same dimensionally. As long as you have the correct stack up for any of those units you will be ok. with that being said What i would do is take the stack up from the unit that came out of your truck and measure it with the new frictions. Now you can mix and match, as long as your final out come is the same measurement as the one from your truck.
 
Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #180  
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J415
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Okay, thanks. One last question for today, so I got my OD thrust spacer squared away (thanks again) Now I'm moving on to my intermediate shaft spacer. So my measurement came out to .785 (my caliper only goes to thousandths)

End Play Measurement | Spacer Thickness
----------------------------------------
.7336 - .7505 | .158 - .159
.7506 - .7675 | .175 - .176
.7676 - .7855 | .193 - .194
.7856 - .8011 | .211 - .212

My question is, is there some rule of thumb when it comes to a situation like this? Should I go with a .193-.194 spacer or should I round up a install a .211-.212 spacer. Thanks again. I really appreciate the help your giving us.
 



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