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MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)

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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 02:37 PM
  #561  
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Originally Posted by jKsled
the steel lines connect on one side to the 4x4 actuator. the other side connect to the red and black vacuum tubes. Make sure the red goes to the red on the actuator, and same for black. These red and black vacuum lines then plug into the 4-port plug on top of the transfer case.

The small spring connects to the kickdown cable to give it some tension. Should be a washer with a tab and a hole, attached to the cable. The other end hooks to a similiar washer thing where the shifter lever (the main shifter arm) is bolted on. the routing of the kickdown cable doesn't really matter so much as it's not touching anything hot (exhaust) and doesn't have any severe bends.
Got the transfer case and rear driveline back in. Test drove without front driveline in. The steel lines have been hooked to the red and black vacuum tubes that connect to the 4 way valve on the front axle. Thanks.
Kickdown cable hooked up as per service manual...thanks.
Truck seems to shift good, after the 3rd pass up the street the right front wheel was locking up. I do not have the front drive shaft in. It is not the front caliper. Could the front actuator be causing this because I do not have the driveline in? Or do you think it is the wheel bearing? Truck has been sitting for a year or so.
 
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #562  
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Originally Posted by WhisperBark
Hi MonteC.
I know you are a busy person and I appreciate everything you do on this forum. I have removed my transmission from my truck but want to be absolutely sure of which transmission I have. My truck is a 97 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.0L. How do I find out which transmission my truck uses? Is there a number on one of the information stickers attached to the truck? I have searched the thread for any information about this, but couldn't find any (in all honesty, I think I saw a post about this somewhere on this thread but could not find it using a search and I don't remember which page it was located on.) Maybe one of the moderators could combine all special information into a sticky at the beginning of the thread; to include the transmission rebuild parts list and how to find out which transmission a certain Ram has.
Thanks again,
Stuck in L.A.
Call your local Dodge dealer parts dept. and give them the last 9 digits of vin number and they can print off the build sheet for your truck its free.
I see its was already answered.

Dave
 
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #563  
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Originally Posted by TSuppa
Monte,

Is there a way to measure endplay on the Overdrive to determine shim size without the special tool?
never mind, I went to the machine and made the tools.
 
Old Jul 24, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #564  
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I just wanted to start off saying thanks to the resident tranny profeesional. I have just read through 50+ pages of tranny woes. Found a couple close to what mine is doing. First off it's in an 02 dak R/T, so it's a 46re. It has 132k on the odo. My problem is when taking off easy, al is good. When taking off with any more than roughly 1/4 throttle it doesn't want to shift until around 4k or more. Let off gas, it'll shift and other gears shift perfect. No cel. From what I have read I am thinking I need to clean the solenoid and sensor. Tried playing with tv cable, no help there. Going to set tps voltage to around .75. Since I'm going to be in the tranny I am guessing I should go ahead with the sure cure, gm conversion, filter/oil, better pan, and maybe adjust bands. Think that'll do it or did I forget something?
 
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #565  
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Originally Posted by always_something
I just wanted to start off saying thanks to the resident tranny profeesional. I have just read through 50+ pages of tranny woes. Found a couple close to what mine is doing. First off it's in an 02 dak R/T, so it's a 46re. It has 132k on the odo. My problem is when taking off easy, al is good. When taking off with any more than roughly 1/4 throttle it doesn't want to shift until around 4k or more. Let off gas, it'll shift and other gears shift perfect. No cel. From what I have read I am thinking I need to clean the solenoid and sensor. Tried playing with tv cable, no help there. Going to set tps voltage to around .75. Since I'm going to be in the tranny I am guessing I should go ahead with the sure cure, gm conversion, filter/oil, better pan, and maybe adjust bands. Think that'll do it or did I forget something?
You got it!
 
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #566  
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Originally Posted by jKsled
Ok lets try and start this over. I'm just a self taught home mechanic like most everyone else on this forum.
ok... so, a scan tool, not a code reader! Theres a good start. I wasn't sure there was a difference. Never worked on electricals on a vehicle this new. I'll look into getting one or using one, and i'll report back what I find.

As far as the bushing. it had frozen onto the old TC, so I didn't see it when i was rebuilding it. Until after I got it back together and running (with a leak) of course. replacing it was in the manual, but it was the one end of the tranny I was starting to rush on because I was getting excited. All i'm looking for here is a confirmation that a worn bushing in the pump housing is probably the cause of the large leak.
it's not the TC, it's new. the front seal is new. the gasket is new. the TC is pulled out 1/8" when it's bolted onto the flexplate. Again, I'm just looking for a profesional opinion that the pump housing is causing a leak through the front seal because the bushing is loose....

The rest of the tranny I feel confident in ( I may be wrong of course) but I went through it twice (yes twice) to double check i had everything right. So let me know what you think of the leak issue, and I will get back to you when I have it in place, non leaking, and use a scan tool on it. Thanks for your time, and sorry for the long post....
Yes the pump body will leak if the bushing was spun severely. The pump gears and body are usually trashed after a busing spins. Im surprised yours is still good.
 
Old Jul 25, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #567  
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MonteC,
I have a 2000 Durango 5.9L, 46RE. After reading all of this thread, I found out that the problems I have with the tranny shifting can be fixed with a few parts. I have now installed the following: governor pressor sensor, governor pressor solenoid, OD lockup solenoid, checkball removal line, drain plug kit, and a Sonnax sure cure kit. As soon as I refilled the tranny with +4 I ran the tranny through all the gears to make sure that it was full, and I now have several codes.

The codes are the following:
0711 - trans. fluid temp sensor circut range/performance
0713 - trans. fluid tmep sensor circut high input
0753 - shift solenoid A electrical
1763 - governor pressor sensor volts too high

I reset the computer and the 0711 went away but the others were right back. I followed the instructions that I found on this thread and other threads in this forum to a tee. Did I do something wrong with the install, or did I maybe get bad parts? Or is it that the computer just needs to learn the new parts? Thanks for all the help, Scott. After resetting the computer several times there is no codes until I start the vehicle. Then the 0713, and 0753 codes come up. The 1763 code doesn't come up until I cycle through the gears. Thanks again, Scott
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 05:25 AM
  #568  
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Originally Posted by Bikers69
MonteC,
I have a 2000 Durango 5.9L, 46RE. After reading all of this thread, I found out that the problems I have with the tranny shifting can be fixed with a few parts. I have now installed the following: governor pressor sensor, governor pressor solenoid, OD lockup solenoid, checkball removal line, drain plug kit, and a Sonnax sure cure kit. As soon as I refilled the tranny with +4 I ran the tranny through all the gears to make sure that it was full, and I now have several codes.

The codes are the following:
0711 - trans. fluid temp sensor circut range/performance
0713 - trans. fluid tmep sensor circut high input
0753 - shift solenoid A electrical
1763 - governor pressor sensor volts too high

I reset the computer and the 0711 went away but the others were right back. I followed the instructions that I found on this thread and other threads in this forum to a tee. Did I do something wrong with the install, or did I maybe get bad parts? Or is it that the computer just needs to learn the new parts? Thanks for all the help, Scott. After resetting the computer several times there is no codes until I start the vehicle. Then the 0713, and 0753 codes come up. The 1763 code doesn't come up until I cycle through the gears. Thanks again, Scott
Your truck is going to need a scan tool put on it for further diagnostics. Were the parts you changed identical to the ones you took off? How did you replace the "od lockup solenoid"?
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:53 AM
  #569  
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Yes the parts were identical. I ordered them from WIT.com, and the tech told me that these are the ones that I needed. The "overdrive lockup solenoid" (this is what they call it) on WIT.com, part #D12420C. The main round plug is up above the valvebody with a 25 torx bolt in the valvebody, with the wire harness that comes down underneath, then it bolts to the side of the valvebody, and the governor pressor sensor and solenoid both attach and plug into it. Before this the Durango wouldn't usually shift out of first if you just put it in drive, but it would shift if done manually. Also there weren't any codes when I first tore it down. Thanks again, Scott.
 
Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #570  
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New member here with an issue with my new to me Dodge and hoping you can help. 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 V10 with the 47RH. Shifts were delayed when I got the truck and I was going to adjust the bands but I guess something broke first. Driving today I was accelerating gently and when the shift to second came there was a slip, little squeal, a clunk and then no second. Reverse works fine, if I put it in the lockout for first it drives forward just fine, but if the gear selector is in second or drive I get only very slight forward power, not even enough to turn the tires one revolution.

I dropped the pan and adjusted the bands for the hell of it. The fluid was black and like sludge, some metal shavings but not major, and there were some thin, wide bits of some material that had a texture similar to really heavy felt. I cleaned stuff out, adjusted the bands, and put in clean fluid and a filter and to no surprise that fixed nothing, haha.

I figure I'm just going to need to bring the trans in for a rebuild; but I wanted to try and get an idea of what broke, or if there is the off chance I can fix it myself.

Thanks for any input!
 



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