The rotor will only snap on to the distributor shaft one way. simply pull up the old one and snap on the new one. The shaft has a indention on it that will only allow the rotor to be installed one way.

 

Cool, thnx BamaRam and thnx to Hey You as well for the past replies! I ordered my Hughes kit yester should be here tom, I'm getting a lil anxious to get everything I need lined up and thinking bout what problems I may run into (how many intake bolts I will break). I'm getting a dremmel to do the kegger mod, this should be fun, I hope!

 

Doing the kegger mod with a dremel is an exercise.... (yep, voice of experience....) I went and got another keg to mod, so all I had to do was swap 'em out when the time came. Made the final job go MUCH faster. (I think I spent three weeks on and off working on my second keg....)

 

I'm kind of planning for this to take a week (want to take my time and be very thorough) my buddy is going to loan me his 300m (his extra car) in the time being. I was at advance auto checking out torque wrenches the inch/lbs ones and referring to the torque sequences per TSB of the plenum pan bolts, the wrench they have didn't have a setting low enough to match the specs for tightening (12 inch/lbs and 48 inch/lbs etc. etc.)

 

It will be really tough to find a torque wrench that small. 12 in/lbs is not very much so I just finger tightened them and then started at the next increment. Just my take on the matter though.

 

Ups just delivered the Hughes kit, the Hughes instructions paper sayes (Do not use any type of gasket sealer) when installing the new plenum gasket and pan. I could swear I've heard a couple of times through reading plenum repair threads people referencing the use of black RTV which I purchased. So I don't use anything like that when I install the new plenum gasket and pan? Another reference I've seen was the use of blue thread locker on the plenum pan bolts, but the 15 bolts that came in the kit already have red thread locker on them, isn't the red thread locker the permanent stuff?

 

The plenum plate bolts go in at 72-in/lbs.

For the record, the best torque-wrench to get is the beam style:

 

I bought my plate off Ebay so I can't speak toward the hugh's plate instructions, but I used black RTV all over my plate. The Fel Pro gasket set I bought had cork gaskets on the front and back and they got sealed up tight with black RTV. The gasket between the plenum pan and the bottom of the intake got several squirts of black RTV as well.

VW the TSB says to start at 12 in/lbs and work your way up by increments of 12 until you get to 72in/lbs. I've always perferred the "clicking" torque wrenches myself, espcially for tight places like the back bolts of the intake. I do see your point on the beam style wrenches though.

OT: VW the picture in your sig is hilarious. I've been laughing about it for the last few days! I even passed it along on a few emails!

 

When I did my plenum I didn't use anything on the pan only on the corners of the manifold gaskets. For what its worth I bought felpro gaskets imo way better. Its been 2 months so far no leaks.

 

Clicker torque wrenches are a joke as they need to be calibrated regularly whereas the beam style wrenches rely on flex, which is more accurate and will not fall out of calibration from non-use. I know several people in various forums who have snapped fasteners using a clicker-style wrench from over-torquing a fastener.

And yes, I understand the bolts are to be tightened in increments. It's that your post came across as saying the final torque value was 12-in/lbs.