By "fun" don't you mean "a royal pain in the ***"?

 

my 93 has hose clamps and rubber line in the frame. don't know if that is how it was suppose to be but it seem work.

 

I would put my money on this. Not to mention I have the dreaded 97 fuel line made of composite/plastic. I've read through several threads, but if anyone has any advice on taking the valve apart I'd be open to it. I can't see the FSM at work, but I'm sure it's detailed there too.

 

Sure you just pry the lock up with a screwdriver, it pops up really easy, then you just pull the fuel line out, it is alot better than the other male end fuel rail, don't worry, I got access to about 4 or 5 more, just helped out a member HEY YOU referred to me.

 

I was able to get that connection loose very easily, nothing to it. I'm think you are the guy I just bought the plenum plate from off ebay. I'm looking forward to strapping it on this weekend and not dealing with the plenum problem anymore! Thanks bud!

 

Same name. Amazing results.

 

no need to be hostile just be aggressive..and new members like myself don't know every inch of the forum off the bat. with that said thanks to all for the great info...from Matt who posted the thread link for me too the man scientist!

 

On page 13 the discussion turns to the rotor position under the dist. cap, is the rotor supposed to be pointing at the number one cylinder? or the number one cylinder (plug wire terminal on the dist. cap?

 

Depends on what you are doing. If you aren't touching anything timing related, then it doesn't matter where it is. If you are doing timing chain and gears as well, just pull the timing cover, turn things so the dots on the gears line up, take off the old, put on the new, WITHOUT MOVING ANYTHING, and you are down the road.

 

I also remember when I bought the dist cap, rotor, plugs, and wires the guy at Advance said the rotor needs to be pointing to the number one. I didn't think much of it at the time or when I changed it out, you're saying this isn't the case?