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End-all Be-all plenum thread

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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 11:16 PM
  #581  
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Tip: I numbered the bolts to keep track...Then with each pass I put a dot next to the particular bolt I torqued..the 1st pass was 12 in. lbs (one dot) 2nd pass 48 in. lbs (second dot) and so on...Helpful if you have short term memory issues, kids running around or the wife asking you to do ten other things while your torquing away...
Old & Crusty

New..Hughes pan

And don't forget to use BLUE LOCTITE on them bolts!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:04 AM
  #582  
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everything looks good bud! thats what i've been doing all night is cleaning everything lol i've already got another TB that i cleaned up and did some mods to so its waiting to get wiped off and thrown on

i picked up some good engine degreaser. heavy duty gel stuff. thats what i used to clean my intake and holy cow did it work great! thing looks almost new! lol
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 01:11 AM
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just finished doing the final cleaning and also ported the injector outlets might not do anything, but eh, i'm bored and cant sleep lol. time to put that darn plate on now!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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TIP & correction: TB and/or the IM has has a coating that can be damaged! If you can pick up a IM or TB from the junk yard and clean and/or do your mods to before you start the plenum job, do so...98% of my time was spent on cleaning parts, running out to HD, advanced and napa...I had all the parts before I started the job but needed stuff like drill bits that weren't in my collection of like 150...heliCoil kits, new size IM bolt, general bs stuff...
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #585  
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Originally Posted by wjxavier
just finished doing the final cleaning and also ported the injector outlets might not do anything, but eh, i'm bored and cant sleep lol. time to put that darn plate on now!
So you only ported the very bottoms Just wondering cause the first thing I thought of was 'would the FI seat correctly after porting the outlets'...
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #586  
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Originally Posted by wjxavier
everything looks good bud! thats what i've been doing all night is cleaning everything lol i've already got another TB that i cleaned up and did some mods to so its waiting to get wiped off and thrown on

i picked up some good engine degreaser. heavy duty gel stuff. thats what i used to clean my intake and holy cow did it work great! thing looks almost new! lol
Thanks, hope the tips are helpful to someone! I would really like to know what the deal is with that metal plate in the valley. I was worried if any chunks got down under there that I couldn't see. I'm not trying to have my oil pump clog up/damaged
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #587  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Think I would be more tempted to just get some longer bolts, and use nuts on the bottom, since you can get to them..... can't leave the washer on top, as it would prevent the manifold from sitting correctly, and it would never seal. You would have vacuum, and coolant leaks..... not a good scene.

You might be able to get away with filling the hole with JB weld, and redrilling it in the correct position, tap it, and then helicoil, or not (tap to correct threads).... not like the bolts are torqued to huge values......
Tried the JB weld in the head hole, then tapped it, then the helicoil insert, put the bolt in, gave it a tug and it worked till that point..got the gaskets on, IM on and started the bolt torque seq..and once I started to torque that bolt down it started to free spin and I actually pulled the bolt/coil (and some JB weld) right out knew that was going to happen. Had to drill out a way big hole, get another helicoil kit ( yes, I HAD to get another kit) sucks...couldn't get a match for just a coil, tap, bit, bolt (price went from $20 to $60). Nobody stocked everything and stuff had to come from out of state, blah,blah.blah. So got a kit from napa and bit from amazon...
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 12:46 PM
  #588  
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yes i only ported the very bottoms lol where the spray pattern actually matterns to a very small degree. like i said, might not do anything, but i was bored at 2 am lol

i'd really like to know about that plate in the valley as well! wish someone would chime in and tell us what the torques are for those bolts lol. or if its even safe to take off without screwing up something lol.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #589  
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got another question to anyone who might be able to answer. the different IM i got to put on only has one water temp sensor port. my old one had two. one sensor has one wire to plug into, the other one has 2. which one should i use for it to work properly? whats the purpose of having two?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #590  
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Originally Posted by wjxavier
got another question to anyone who might be able to answer. the different IM i got to put on only has one water temp sensor port. my old one had two. one sensor has one wire to plug into, the other one has 2. which one should i use for it to work properly? whats the purpose of having two?
I hoping someone can give us the name of the metal piece so I can give you the torque spec...hello anyone..lol...as for those sensors..I have two also air coolant temp sensor & air change temp sensor aka IM air temp sensor...they're totally different size sensors so you should easily figure out which harness plug is for what sensor..the air temp sensor sends a voltage input to the PCM indicating the IM air temp..That input plus ones from others determine injector pulse width. And when the temp of the air/fuel stream in the IM varies, the sensor resistance changes...As for the coolant temp sensor it also determines pw as well as ignition timing. As the coolant temp varies, that sensor resistance will change. Those changes results in different voltage inputs to the PCM. SO,...if you do need both and I would think you do (don't take my word for it tho) I'm sure all you would have to do is drill a hole (in the right spot) tap it to the correct size, pop in the sensor and your good to go..remember I have a 98 5.9...just my ...any more q's just ask
 
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