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5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.

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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:00 AM
  #471  
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Come on guys. If your cooling system is malfunctioning you can still overheat your engine. Even with the Evans cooling, it's just not gonna boil.

And I guess the higher boiling point gives you a lot more leeway if say you have a rad cap just blow up
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #472  
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Your engine overheating means that it is running at a higher temp than it should. Just because your coolant isn't boiling, does not mean your engine is not overheating...... If you are running hotter than 10-15 degrees above what your thermostat opens at, you are overheating.

Now, having coolant with a significantly higher boiling point may reduce the consequences of running hot, but, there will still be consequences.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:46 PM
  #473  
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Ok guys I stand corrected, I couldn't see the forest for the trees.

Yes you can still overheat your engine as, it could reach 260* say. I would hate to see one of our engines hit 300* cause god knows what it would do. The benefit of EWC is that it doesn't turn to steam so you are not going to have the hot spots like you do with a water based coolant. I like the idea of the Evans stuff but I do not like the cost. So I will wait and watch and when and if it comes down in price I might think about running it.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 08:23 PM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut
Ok guys I stand corrected, I couldn't see the forest for the trees.

Yes you can still overheat your engine as, it could reach 260* say. I would hate to see one of our engines hit 300* cause god knows what it would do. The benefit of EWC is that it doesn't turn to steam so you are not going to have the hot spots like you do with a water based coolant. I like the idea of the Evans stuff but I do not like the cost. So I will wait and watch and when and if it comes down in price I might think about running it.
I wonder about the hot spots as well.... After all, cylinder temps are pushing four digits, if not higher..... Now, I have zero doubt that it would reduce the issue over standard coolant/water mix, but, I would be real curious to see if it actually eliminated it......

And no, I don't EVER want to my engine to see 260 degrees, regardless of what's in there.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #475  
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Okay all I have been looking at this radiator now for the past 6 months since I pulled it and want some opinions from others. If you look you can see the filler neck on the passenger side and the upper radiator hose on the drivers side. But the filler neck is the same height or just lower than the upper radiator hose. This doesn't seem right to me as how are you going to get the radiator completely full with it like this. Am I just confused or am I correct and this is wrong?

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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 04:28 PM
  #476  
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I think you are correct, however, get one of the
magic radiator fill buckets magic radiator fill buckets
, and you can get around the problem, you just have to put the cap on right quick after taking the funnel off.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 04:58 PM
  #477  
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So how would I go about hooking this up to my radiator. I could mount this higher if I could find a place for it.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63650/10002/-1
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #478  
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Your radiator is designed to have a pressure cap on it though...... If you could find a radiator cap that just sealed the opening, ABOVE the overflow port, then it would be just a matter of running a hose to the additional tank. Bear in mind, that hose will now be under pressure, so, use hose that is rated for it, and two clamps on each end. Then, that tank becomes your fill-point for the radiator.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 05:11 PM
  #479  
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Could you just drive the front right onto a ramp (or jack the front right) making the filler the high point of the system.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 05:19 PM
  #480  
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Or you could put something like this in the top hose
 
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