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Valve Timing Questions

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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 04:15 PM
  #121  
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You are looking at a differecne of 0.02", or about the thickness of a piece pf paper. They will be a little tighter if anything. Can't see why they would not work fine.

Lap the valves!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
You are looking at a differecne of 0.02", or about the thickness of a piece pf paper. They will be a little tighter if anything. Can't see why they would not work fine.

Lap the valves!
.02" is a lot more than a sheet of paper.

Hipotek is good people from all accounts, if Richard says they'll work I'm sure they will.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 06:44 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Hahns5.2
.02" is a lot more than a sheet of paper.

Hipotek is good people from all accounts, if Richard says they'll work I'm sure they will.
Yeah Richard seems to be a great guy. He said they would work just like the MP springs so I took his word for it. I also told him all the mods on my truck and what future mods will be done and he was able to get me a custom ground cam picked outa and some Johnson Hy-Lift lifters. He also said was able to work out a better price than what's listed on his site. IMO that's some top notch customer service and he's got my future busines.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Hahns5.2
.02" is a lot more than a sheet of paper.

Hipotek is good people from all accounts, if Richard says they'll work I'm sure they will.

OK. I stand corrected. Photopaper (which I consume huge quantities) is thicker, but std 20# paper is about 0.006".

But it should still work...
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 11:21 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by gdstock
OK. I stand corrected. Photopaper (which I consume huge quantities) is thicker, but std 20# paper is about 0.006".

But it should still work...

I looked at all the different sites that carry the MP springs and most of them have slight differences in sizes so I guess it depends on who's measuring it. From all my research and from Rich confirming that they worked I couldn't turn down his springs especially for the price.. I'm ordering his 210xp cam with a 110 lsa which he said is a very popular cam and is the same grind as the KRC 210x cam. Then I'm also getting the Johnson Hy-lift lifters he has. I'm ordering the cam and lifters tomorrow and will have my SCT stage 1 tuner from Hemi Fever in 2 weeks. I'm in the Army so I only get paid twice a month so I do what I can with what little I have after bills.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #126  
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Ok fellas, all the parts are ordered, but I just thought of something. When I fork out $100 for the dealer to set my fuel sync, what should I have them set it at since I have a cam that has way more lift and duration than stock? +4 or +6?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #127  
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I would be real tempted, instead of paying the dealer to set sync, spend a bit more, and buy a scanner that will read it..... then, experiment...... If you can see what the value is, you can wiggle it around, and see what works best for you.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 09:57 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I would be real tempted, instead of paying the dealer to set sync, spend a bit more, and buy a scanner that will read it..... then, experiment...... If you can see what the value is, you can wiggle it around, and see what works best for you.
I wish that was an option, but I have dropped most of my money into building the top end up on this truck and lots of other upgrades as well. I read that if the dealer uses the DRB scan tool to have them set it at +8 to +12 and if they use the snap-on mt2500 to set it at +4 to +6. I just need it to be usable until I get my SCT tuner from Sean at Hemifever next week.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #129  
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If your cam is installed straight up, and doesn't have any 'built in' advance, I do believe you want sync at zero......
 
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #130  
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^^^ +1 zero it is.
 
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