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Building up my 95 dodge ram 2500

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  #31  
Old 03-09-2016 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Emmelman1
Right on right on I'll probably have to wait a min funds are short sucks
Typical state of affairs for me.
 
  #32  
Old 03-13-2016 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Typical state of affairs for me.
Got to borrow some cash and combined with my only day off I got this far















 
  #33  
Old 04-06-2016 | 03:37 PM
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We'll got it all put back together ntk? 02 sensor installed cause it's was missing and was getting heavy fuel also from a vacuum leak I had all fixed now but now I'm getting heavy white smoke on acceleration never did it before so don't know it it's heavy fuel again or if I messed up the intake gaskets on install it was a tight fit also if any of my injectors were bad I got newer injectors on the way along with a 50 mm throttle body also I managed to dig up my msd 6al box I bought 5 years ago and never used along with a blaster ss coil but before that install I wanna get my distributer replaced it snapped the screw hole completly off after I taped it so it's zip tied down again lol
 
  #34  
Old 04-06-2016 | 04:39 PM
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White smoke is coolant.... Is your radiator level going down? Does the exhaust smell sweet, and burn your eyes?
 
  #35  
Old 04-06-2016 | 05:28 PM
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I'll have to check but I was getting so much fuel when I started and ran it around the first time it put fuel into my oil but when I. Fixed the vacuum and o2 sensor and oil change it fixed that and there was a lot less smoke the oil turned watery and smelled bad of fuel why I changed it
 
  #36  
Old 04-10-2016 | 04:34 AM
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Ok here's what I found out I did a coolant pressure test again and cold don't lose pressure from what iv seen but when I did the running test I couldn't get a raise in the coolant so I got curious and put pressure I the system and it lowered a hair so I checked the exhaust and it smelt a bit sweet and I was getting sprayed in the face with wetness spatter I don't believe I have bad heads I didn't have this problem before do you think I could of put the intake bad I did have a problem with the back thicker gasket on the intake manifold kept falling off or moving and maybe in moving it back off and on I could of messed up the side metal gaskets I hope that's it :/ thanks in advanced to hey you you've been a lot of help hope I can get a bit more
 
  #37  
Old 04-10-2016 | 11:27 AM
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The coolant passages are pretty far from the intake ports.... so, a bad intake install would be rather unlikely to get coolant into the cylinders. You would see it in the oil first. Might wanna try a compression test, or leakdown test.
 
  #38  
Old 04-10-2016 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The coolant passages are pretty far from the intake ports.... so, a bad intake install would be rather unlikely to get coolant into the cylinders. You would see it in the oil first. Might wanna try a compression test, or leakdown test.
ComprEssington test today but what is leak down test?
 
  #39  
Old 04-10-2016 | 12:36 PM
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Need the gauge set to do leak down test. Probably can rent one from any major parts store....

Basically, leakdown test tells you how well the cylinder seals, and where the leaks are. Screw the gauge in, apply air pressure, read the gauges. (I use 100PSI input pressure, to make the math easy.) If you get 80 PSI on a cylinder, then you have 20% leakdown. If you listen carefully, you can even hear where the air is escaping.

According to the manuals, up to 25% leakdown is 'acceptable'..... (which seems excessive to me.....) and all cylinders should be fairly close. (within 5 points or so) Lets ya know where your problem areas are. Best done on a fully warmed engine. (and test cylinders while they are in firing position, just like compression test.)
 
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Old 04-10-2016 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Need the gauge set to do leak down test. Probably can rent one from any major parts store....

Basically, leakdown test tells you how well the cylinder seals, and where the leaks are. Screw the gauge in, apply air pressure, read the gauges. (I use 100PSI input pressure, to make the math easy.) If you get 80 PSI on a cylinder, then you have 20% leakdown. If you listen carefully, you can even hear where the air is escaping.

According to the manuals, up to 25% leakdown is 'acceptable'..... (which seems excessive to me.....) and all cylinders should be fairly close. (within 5 points or so) Lets ya know where your problem areas are. Best done on a fully warmed engine. (and test cylinders while they are in firing position, just like compression test.)
I'll look Around
 


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