That would defeat the whole purpose in having a Bi-xenon kit tho, wouldn't it? Any way to disable the drl's?

 

hids on low beam are more than enough. in all my years of using hids ive never used highs because when you do you lose the fogs. fogs and lows are insane.

no one i know in canada has disabled drls

 

I accidently posted this in the hidextra group buy thread, i meant to post it here which seems more appropriate?

Ok, after speaking with hidsupport's phone support today, they explained that the new bi-xenon ballasts are can-bus safe and work fine without a relay harness. Further they said that the new bi-xenon kits work with a standard relay harness and dont require a bi-xenon relay harness. After inspecting the pigtail harness that comes with it, I see that they appear to be correct, the relay suplies the power and you plug the pig tail in to the passenger side headlight connector to just get the hi/lo signal. Either way I unforunately didnt get that far.

I started on the driver side, i hooked up the relay harness and connected it all properly and turned it on and i hear the relay just clicking. So then I am like **** I didnt have the fuse in the relay harness, so I put it in and now the lights are kicking on and off with the relay clicking. I am 95% sure this indicates a bad relay (not holding open) but I didnt have a spare, can you all confirm this would be probably just a bad relay?

So I hook it up directly to the head light for power (disabling the relay entirely) and it lit up perfectly. No strobing, no flicker, looked good. So it appears these new canbus safe digital ballasts are as good as they say. Still get light bulb out indicator but since I didnt use resistors (i am 03) I expected this.

So I try the hi beam. This leads me to major problem #2

It starts making this clicking sound like it was hitting the top or bottom of the light. I quickly went back to low beam and it was fine. It appeared the bulb was notched and would only fit in one direction, but I guess not. I assume I put it in wrong but still dont see how it would hit anything if i did? Making it even more odd is that it appears I am low beam on when the low beams are on, (its pointing as the low beams did) but IDK. Any advice would be great. I thought also maybe its a bad unit as well and its not magnetically staying in place as it should and that is the clicking noise?

I am currently driving around with one hid and one halogen (wanted to get these issues worked out before ripping another headlight out), making me probably extra annoying lol, but it did give me a chance to compare the bulbs side by side, wow hid's make a world of difference! my 6k's are way more blue than i expected, i would probably go with 5k next time (wanted a crisp white with a tinge of blue). I did notice that on startup the light is like 80% brighter for like 10 seconds and then it goes to its nominal light power, is this normal too?

 

An update:

As far as the high beam clicking problem, it turns out to be a bad bulb. I installed the passenger side and it works fine on high beam, the driver side tries to move and then flings back like it cant magnetically hold in place, hidextra has offered to rma it for free so I am happy about that.

As far as the relay harness problem, weird, a new relay didnt solve the problem, it was still clicking on and off, so i put a 12v test light on the harness coming from the 9007 pigtail and its blinking on and off! So the signal going to the relay is on and off, so its not the relays fault. So currently i have the ballasts plugged into the headlight system for power on both side until I can work out the problem. Oddly it works fine with that on/off blinking signal when going straight to the ballasts (no relay harness) It seems tho not to be any where near as bright as I expected, they seem to be what I would expect for 1 second when they first turn on and then they go really low. I am hoping that getting a relay harness working will help with the light power.

I should mention that at first I suspected a bad 9007 bixenon pigtail (they have a little microchip on them for the hi/lo logic i assume) but I tested with my test lamp on both sides and both sides was giving the blinking signal on and off. Further hidextra says these are new bixenon kits from their old ones. They say they have never gotten it to work right on dodge ram trucks but i mentioned this forum and thread and said it should be working correctly with a relay harness.

 

Mine take like 15 seconds before they get their brightest. First when i turn them on they are not that bright, and they just continue to get more bright by the second. something doesn't sound right with yours.

 

I am hoping the relay harness will help with the problem but I cant use one until I figure out how to stop this blinking signal to the relay.

 

when the truck does not detect a load from the oem halogen bulb via the internal filament it reduces power and flickering can occur. that why we use 50 watt load resistors to simulate the filament in the halogen bulbs that are no longer there.

so my first question is do you have the 50 watt load resistors installed as indicated as the first page?

 

Wedahoe, sorry man, there seems to have been some confusion on my part. I had intepreted it as the only problem with an 03 not having resistors would be the light out warning. I had thought when I asked if i could use a wiring harness with no resistor since i am pre-06 and dont mind the light out warning, that people said it would be fine.

But this makes total sense, that would explain why the signal is on and off to the relay since its a low draw. further, it makes sense why the lights work ok when connected directly since they are drawing enough power i assume to keep them powered.

I will try to find some 50watt resistors locally, but i think i will have to order them online. does anyone know of anywhere i can get them from at a local store? I think there might be a car audio shop who will sell me the relay harness with 4 relays built in for $35 i think, another was selling a bixenon harness with 4 relays build in for $50 but the relays arent cheap so with 4 of them maybe these prices arent too bad.

 

Check out posts 2 and 14 for reference.

 

Has anyone tried the new CANBUS Ballast, if so did you have any issues and also has anyone tried to do wiring for both passenger and drivers side on thier own relay system