I have been putting in the hours today. I got the core support and both front fenders off. Using some ingenuity and some 2x6's laying around, I cooked up this fixture for lifting the cab off the old chassis. I am pretty confident the boards will hold the weight of the cab. I have no idea what it weighs. I still have some things to disconnect before I actually lift it off the chassis, but I am getting closer. Due to the height of the lift, I can only raise the cab about a foot. Once lifted, I will just roll the old chassis out from under it and into the yard. Then wheel the thing over the Dakota chassis and lower it on.




To help get the cab over the Dakota, I had to get it on the floor and off the wheel cribs. I also pulled the engine and trans. I think the stance is turning out what I hoped it would be. Once the cab and drivetrain are back in it should sink down another inch or two. The goal is to get the cab and fenders on the Dakota so I can measure for the front wheels. I have all of the numbers for the rear wheels. I plan on buying the new wheels next month. Having them bolted to the chassis will really be exciting!

 

Nice.

 

Now that I am digging deeper into body removal, I thought I would show everyone some Idaho farmer build techniques and sketchy repairs. I already posted pictures of the frame splice and motor mounts. Check these out!!!

Here is the ONLY cab mount that uses a spring... (???)



A pillow bearing for the steering column is a good idea. Welding it to the frame when it clearly has the hole for bolting it? I found this while I was getting ready to remove the steering column.



1) How many tubes of JB Weld did he use?
2) This is the windshield wiper motor... I have no idea if it even works.




This one is "classic farmer who owns a welder" right here! Steering link too long? I know how to get the exact length needed!!

 

Now some of that is downright funny....... Fixing it though? That may be a problem. Though the steering will be a non-issue.

 

This whole 4wd chassis will be going bye bye. I may still try to identify the trans and transfer case for individual sale. I believe it has a Saginaw power steering in it, and I know the rear axle assembly is a Dodge. The chassis, either with it's components or not, I will witness it go the metal recycler. It will never have a chance at being driven again. My contribution to road safety!

 

I lifted the cab up with the hoist, brought it around the back of the old chassis, and rolled it over the Dakota and set it down. By myself! I had to get the wife to help me roll the old chassis out of the shop and into the back yard, though. I am really liking the way it sits! It has to come up some, though. The front of the cab is resting on the upper parts of the trans cross member. Maybe one inch. That will require raising the bed the same amount. The body line between the cab and bed are pretty good, so any height adjustment will need to move both. I am trying to keep the body as low as possible on the Dakota chassis. But for a first placement I am really liking it!!

 

This chassis is heading to the metal recycler right after the holidays. If anyone is interested in parts of the drivetrain, speak up soon. The SBC engine is toast. The rear axle is a Dodge, I am not sure about the 4 speed trans or transfer case.

 

I forgot to post this gem with the other shady mechanic shots. So, when you lose one of the battery caps on a lead acid battery, spark plugs are the perfect diameter! Who knew?

 

Ok, there is something I never expected to see.

The cab looks right at home there.

 

After spending most of the afternoon measuring, shimming, measuring, some more measuring, I have finally got the bed/cab alignment down. It's the up and down on the floor that is most difficult. At my age, if are going to get down on the floor, you darn well better have a plan to get back up! Both the cab and the bed are in position to fab the mounts. I fit one of the front fenders on it to verify the wheel is centered in the wheel well, and it's right where it needs to be. The trick was getting the cab - cross member interference eliminated first, then level everything up from there. The bottom of the bed side is level with the bottom of the cab, and the gaps are all even. In the second shot you can really see the burn damage on the driver's side.