When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.
2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.
PCM already has that capability. At least, it should be easy on a 96-97 PCM, on the 98 and newer, the PCM just tells the cluster to turn on the O/D Off lite... The older PCM will have a couple pins for that light, which on the older trucks is integrated into the switch itself.
Dang Nab..... I think my PCM is from a 1998 if I remember correctly. I can't use the 1997 PCM as it won't talk to the dash of the Jeep. It'll make the engine run but my 1997 Jeep Wrangler has a CCD dash so it has to have a PCM that will communicate in the CCD. I was hoping to figure out a way to make that light illuminate. Even if I had to use a part of dash to decipher the signal.
Guess I shouldn't have drilled that hole until I verified I could make it work.
Took me a little research and looking around at different electrical forums and found the information I was looking for. Basically I needed what was called a self latching relay to turn the O/D light on & off when I selected to turn off the O/D. So I took a chance and ordered a relay off Amazon. Got out my jumper leads and made some short leads to hook things up with. This was just to test the theory and I'll be cleaning up all this once I'm done.
But I NOW have a O/D light..... YaHoo
Confirmed by the SnapOn scanner
And yep it works when turning off.
I'm happy with myself and the fact that I was able to figure this all out.
OK guys,
Weigh in on this video please and give me some ideas as to what might be going on inside my engine... Could this be a tune issue? Not a intake manifold leak or at least not externally as I've sprayed it down with brake clean and it's had no affect on the RPM's or engine sound.
The low temps may be running lean? What do fuel trims look like? Do you only have one pre-cat O2 sensor?
I was hoping/wanting the lower temperatures on the right bank. The 350* just seems way too hot to me. And I thought if it was running lean it would be hotter than if it was running normal or rich?
Maybe I'm not looking at the correct area on my scanner but I don't see individual injectors listed as an option. But I'll go back and look again.
Yes I have a pre & post cat O2 sensor plus a wideband O2 sensor so I can actual O2 readings.
Lean can produce higher cylinder temps..... but, your temps are WAY to low. Keep in mind, combustion is north of 800 degrees..... Still and all, all cylinders should be pretty close to each other..... cylinders toward the back of the engine will likely have higher manifold temps, simply because they are also being fed by the cylinders in front of 'em.... but, a difference of 400 degrees? Something ain't quite right there.
Lean can produce higher cylinder temps..... but, your temps are WAY to low. Keep in mind, combustion is north of 800 degrees..... Still and all, all cylinders should be pretty close to each other..... cylinders toward the back of the engine will likely have higher manifold temps, simply because they are also being fed by the cylinders in front of 'em.... but, a difference of 400 degrees? Something ain't quite right there.
The ceramic coated headers were supposed to help cut down on the heat too I thought? But yes the difference in temps between the left & right bank is what has me concerned.
Pulled the spark plugs so I could do a compression test on the engine. Yep it's running pretty rich.
Compression test wasn't what I was hoping to see.
Leakdown test showed that things looked good in the cylinder.
Pulled the drivers side valve cover and this was what greeted me.
Not sure why or what caused this either.
But it's broken
Got out my bore camera and piston looked good.
Got a new rocker arm and rocker stud ordered. Push rod rolled on a flat surface was fine. The stud doesn't look bent but I'm going to error on the side of caution.
Wow. Yeah, way rich.... but, I don't think one broken rocker would account for that. It WOULD account for the stupid low compression number though. The rest look good.
Still and all, all cylinders should be pretty close to each other..... cylinders toward the back of the engine will likely have higher manifold temps, simply because they are also being fed by the cylinders in front of 'em.... but, a difference of 400 degrees? Something ain't quite right there.
