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Finally made a trip around the block. The brakes are still not good, but it stops. Im not comfortable taking it into traffic, but it went down our residential road. I have some things I noticed;
1) The thermostat does open. It appears to be a 195 degree thermostat. The fan kicks on, and keeps it at about 195. I think thats a little hot, so Ill get a 180 degree thermostat instead. 2) The steering is practically useless. I can barely even make a turn and it takes a lot of effort. Im going to have to install a power rack and a power steering unit. No questions on that. Its borderline undriveable. But no wheels rubbing! 3) I mentioned before the steering column has to go because of crappy switches. Im going to get a 30" unit, instead of this 28" unit. And iIll get a 15" steering wheel to replace this pathetically cheap 14" one. The reach to the steering wheel is a bit too much, and the tilt feature is useless with the column at this angle with the 2" drop mount. It will be hard to explain here, but this seems to be the way I need to go. 4) The brakes are better, but still not enough. The issue was the rod wasnt going into the master cylinder enough. We removed a few spacers, and it still wasnt doing anything. We removed the master from the booster, and the rod in between was about 1-1/2" too short. I sacrificed a screwdriver and made a rod, and it seems to work... a little. I bought a hardened stainless bolt (so I have adjustment) that Ill make into a rod, but they still dont work the best. There are leaks too. The front wheel cylinders, the master , and the combo valve all have leaks, so Ill work on them. 5) The gas tank will need a vent. I guess where it gets hot in the sun it swells. I plan on covering it, but it will need one. I went to remove the cap, and it had some serious pressure. After sitting in the garage for a few hours, no pressure, so its all good now. It just needs a vent. 6) While driving it, I slowed down and tried to down shift from 2nd to 1st, and it was nothing but grinding. Is the NP435 unsynchronized? I cant get fast enough to try the 3-2 shift. I had to completely stop to shift into 1st. This is the granny first gear transmission, but that might not work. Ill have to look into that. I might have to get another transmission.
Im super happy. My wife even moved the truck back a forth a few times. I have a long list of things to fix, and Ill be working on those throughout the year. If I can get the brakes working well, Ill start driving it to work and local shows and hangouts.
That has been confirmed on another forum as well. First in the granny NP435 is not synchronized, but 2nd, 3rd and 4th are. Thank you.
If you're using a hydraulic clutch, it should be a fairly easy clutch. When I was a kid, I drove a '61 Valiant and I got to where I would slip it into neutral at a light and let off the clutch. First gear on that wasn't synchonized but second was. When the light would turn green, I'd push the clutch in and slip it into second gear. This would stop the intermediate shaft from spinning and then it would go into first with no grinding.
It is hydraulic, and all new so its smooth and easy. I have been told to start in 2nd, so Ill try that. Of course that will be after the brakes are sorted out.
It is hydraulic, and all new so its smooth and easy. I have been told to start in 2nd, so Ill try that. Of course that will be after the brakes are sorted out.
Depending on your gear ratios in the transmission, you don't have to start in 2nd, you can just slip into 2nd to stop the intermediate shaft from spinning then go into 1st.
Yes, this transmission is the granny, so it goes 6.68:1, 3.34:1, 1.66:1, and 1.0:1, with reverse being 8.26:1. There was another version with a 4.56:1 first, but I have the other. Depending on how well it works, we might keep it, and get a splitter from gear vendors, making it an 8 speed. We will have to see.
After looking and searching and scratching our heads, I got a call from Preston, the friend who helped me look at the brakes. The truck seemed to not have front brakes at all, and using the line lock proved that, but we didnt know why. He asked me a very simple question; are the bleeders on the front calipers on top, or on bottom? This seems pretty easy, and I admit I cant believe I missed it. Im chalking it up to being in a rush, and Ive never done anything this in-depth on a car. Simple rookie mistake, but Ill take it. I remade the rod that goes between the booster and the master cylinder, and tightened all the lines again. After swapping the calipers, my daughter helped me bleed the brakes and now they work.
Still have a ton of work to do, but she runs good enough I can start venturing out into traffic and getting used to it. Ill get a plate next week and might even drive it to work one day. Woohoo.
The rod it came with and the one I made. The size difference is crazy. That would have never worked. Bleeders are now on top. It sure makes bleeding the brakes easier.
Finally coming together. Awesome!
