What Did You Do To Your 2ND GEN RAM Today?
Replaced the smog legal Pace Setters gaskets because of the ticking from a leak. I used Remflex header gaskets and new ARP bolts. The gaskets are about 1/4 inch thick and require 20 ft lbs on the bolts. I removed the 4 studs in the center of the manifolds. First getting the corroded nuts off the studs, one flat side of the nut on each turn for 2 of them, #3 and #6. There are a couple of more bolts that required ingenuity to get off the header and reinstall. I also put on a mandrel bent 3" cat back single exhaust with a dual chamber muffler. The cheapies from ebay, $180. Sounds nice.
Replaced the smog legal Pace Setters gaskets because of the ticking from a leak. I used Remflex header gaskets and new ARP bolts. The gaskets are about 1/4 inch thick and require 20 ft lbs on the bolts. I removed the 4 studs in the center of the manifolds. First getting the corroded nuts off the studs, one flat side of the nut on each turn for 2 of them, #3 and #6. There are a couple of more bolts that required ingenuity to get off the header and reinstall. I also put on a mandrel bent 3" cat back single exhaust with a dual chamber muffler. The cheapies from ebay, $180. Sounds nice.
Sanded out the bed and treated with POR-15 getting ready to spray line it. Kinda a PITA and tedious. Probably gonna have to hit it up again with some hand sanding in some spots. Found one rust hole popping through. I know its where the rail sits underneath. Gonna be racing the weather at this point. Taking about snow already.
Experienced a first for me last weekend - complete failure of the left front wheel bearings to the point that the bearings are seized to the spindle. I just replaced and repacked the bearings not long after I got the truck so I know how long it's been since they were last serviced. The most perplexing thing about it is that I've been packing wheel bearings for most of my life and, until now, never had one fail like this before. When I popped the dust cover off, it looked as though they was barely any grease in there at all and I'm not cheap with the grease when I do them. A quick inspection of the right side shows everything pretty much as I left it. As much trouble as I had with the "shop" that put the tires on it and messed up the alignment a couple of months ago, I can't help but wonder (and really hate being that suspicious) if the left side didn't get a little help along the way.
After spending a couple of hours trying everything short of a cutting torch to get the rotor off last Sunday, I decided it wasn't worth trying to save the rotor. I ordered new rotors and pads online (needed new ones anyway), picked up new bearings and seals for both sides, and obtained a replacement spindle from a parts yard down the road. I got notification the the rotors will be here today so as soon as the sun is up and things start warming up a little, I'll be out turning wrenches.
After spending a couple of hours trying everything short of a cutting torch to get the rotor off last Sunday, I decided it wasn't worth trying to save the rotor. I ordered new rotors and pads online (needed new ones anyway), picked up new bearings and seals for both sides, and obtained a replacement spindle from a parts yard down the road. I got notification the the rotors will be here today so as soon as the sun is up and things start warming up a little, I'll be out turning wrenches.
Changed out the Master Cylinder and got my brakes back and the yellow ABS and red Brake light to go away. Still think I may have a tinny bit of air in there somewhere. Brakes are decent again but I feel they should be better considering a new master cylinder. I bench bled the MC, followed the procedures for the MC connections, ABS lines etc under the hood and now I need to go back around to the four wheels. I'm sure it wont hurt to purge any remaining old fluid left in the lines either.















